Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at 03. Sanace

113 routes
13 areas
2–9+ grades

Sanace on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 110 routes on 13 towers and walls – for example Cestář Kabourek, Země zázraků, Věž u šachty, Děčínská žula, Visuté zahrady and Seismograf. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, on vertical walls and overhangs; grades from 2 to 9+. Climbing on the Čihadlo tower is permanently banned.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 03. Sanace has 113 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th, permanent climbing ban on the Čihadlo tower. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

9/9+
Zelený agent
In the right part of the northwest wall via a crack and wall with 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Vémola
In the north wall from the right up the overhanging wall (2 BH) and distinctly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Děčínská žula
To the right of the 'Hard Grit' route from the stone diagonally right (2 BH), then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8+/9-
Děčínská žula
From the 1st BH of the route 'Red Zone', traverse right to the 2nd BH. Briefly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9/9+
Děčínská žula
Through the middle of the valley wall (6 BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
9+
Děčínská žula
Completely in the left part of the massif, from the last upper terrace, up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Děčínská žula
In the left part of the massif from the terrace to the right of Seismograf, directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Seismograf
In the south face via a broken crack to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Seismograf
In the right part of the massif, on the south face, from the high terrace near Děčín… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Seismograf
In the right part of the valley wall, to the right of the corner, diagonally left (1st BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Ztráta času
To the right of the start of the Teplá zima route, wall over 3 BH and edge to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Kožíšek
Middle of the N wall over BH directly to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Čihadlo
SE edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Overhang
7+/8-
Visuté zahrady
Wall to the right of the Green Racist route over bh directly to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Země zázraků
In the right part of the wall, to the right beyond the edge of the 'Life after life'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Země zázraků
In the left part of the right massif, up the wall over 2 bolts and from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Země zázraků
Along the right edge, the right part of the massif over the bolt for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Země zázraků
In the middle of the wall over 2 bolts, diagonally right over the 3rd bolt to the 4th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Země zázraků
In the right part of the left wall, a prominent crack (1 bolt) to the 4th bolt of the "So… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Země zázraků
From the 3rd bolt of the "Wonderland" route, directly up the wall over 2 bolts and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Země zázraků
To the right of the Posazení route, directly up the wall over 4 bolts for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Země zázraků
To the left of the 'Shot Goose' route, up cracks (loops) to the bolt and further up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Cestář Kabourek
Left of the "Old Route" up the corner, right over the block and along the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Cestář Kabourek
In the left part of the South Face via 2bh to the forepeak and along the old route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Cestář Kabourek
South wall via 3K to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cestář Kabourek
To the left in the valley wall via a crack over several overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Cestář Kabourek
2m right of the route "Lesní pych" via a crack to the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Cestář Kabourek
Left of the Valley Corner, slightly left an inclined crack with an overhanging start to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Cestář Kabourek
To the right in the valley wall, a small wall in the corner to the chimney and through it… Rock Climbing
6
Cestář Kabourek
In the right part of the S wall via 2K to the forepeak summit and along the Old Route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.