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Climbing at 03. Sanace

113 routes
13 areas
2–9+ grades

Sanace on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 110 routes on 13 towers and walls – for example Cestář Kabourek, Země zázraků, Věž u šachty, Děčínská žula, Visuté zahrady and Seismograf. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, on vertical walls and overhangs; grades from 2 to 9+. Climbing on the Čihadlo tower is permanently banned.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 03. Sanace has 113 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th, permanent climbing ban on the Čihadlo tower. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

4+
Čihadlo
N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čihadlo
NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Čihadlo
To the right of the SW edge, wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall, direct with the left edge over BH to the top for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Visuté zahrady
On the south side through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
From the S side along the edge of the narrow left overhanging pillar over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
From the stance below the left W wall (bolt), directly up over 2 bolts to the summit (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Visuté zahrady
From the stance below the left W wall (bolt), left up the rib and up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall to the right of the narrow chimney, through the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Visuté zahrady
From BH Autumn Butterflies traverse right to the crack. Through it, higher up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall, right (SW) edge over 2 BH, later wall to the left through holes to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Země zázraků
Left adjacent massif. South face (photo red line) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the Bonita route, up a corner along a thin crack, later a wider crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'Amazing Thing' crack, up the wall (5 bolts) for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Země zázraků
To the right of the Samodruhá route, up the wall over 3 bolts for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'Oh, misery of life...' route, directly up the wall over 2 bolts for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'System Error' route, up a corner and along a thin falcon-like crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Země zázraků
To the left of the 'Wonderland' route, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Země zázraků
To the left of the "Supernatural" route, up a corner over 2 bolts below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Země zázraků
Directly up the left valley edge over 4 bolts to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Štamprle
Directly up the overhanging edge over the bolt to the summit and right to the balcony for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Štamprle
In the right part of the wall, up a corner and a small crack to the bolt, from the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Štamprle
Up the wall to the ledge to the bolt. Directly through the depression to the ledges and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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