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Climbing at 03. Sanace

113 routes
13 areas
2–9+ grades

Sanace on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 110 routes on 13 towers and walls – for example Cestář Kabourek, Země zázraků, Věž u šachty, Děčínská žula, Visuté zahrady and Seismograf. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, on vertical walls and overhangs; grades from 2 to 9+. Climbing on the Čihadlo tower is permanently banned.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 03. Sanace has 113 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th, permanent climbing ban on the Čihadlo tower. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

8+/9-
Az sanace
Through the middle of the North Face directly over BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Věž u šachty
Up the valley wall directly (BH) into the Superšpička route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž u šachty
From the valley side from the NW via the left crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Děčínská žula
In the right part of the massif from the corner, directly up the north face over 2 BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Děčínská žula
From the ledge in the middle of the W face, briefly up the wall and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Děčínská žula
In the right part of the massif via a small chimney and diagonally left (2BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8+/9-
Děčínská žula
From the 1st BH of the route "Black Stork" to the right over 2 BH.. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Děčínská žula
From the ledge in the left part of the W face, via the right gully and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Děčínská žula
From the ledge from the block on the S side, traverse into the wall, up and diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Děčínská žula
In the left part of the S face, over the overhang via 2 BH and up the wall to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Děčínská žula
Through the middle of the S face to the summit (slings)..
8+/9-
Az sanace
In the left part of the massif, to the left of the small balcony, via a short wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Děčínská žula
In the left part of the valley wall from the terrace to the right into the route 'The… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Seismograf
From the 1st BH of the route 'She make me crazy', directly up the wall to the rappel… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Seismograf
In the right part of the South Face via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Seismograf
From the plateau side, northern edge over the overhang and further directly along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Seismograf
From the W via a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Seismograf
From the plateau terrace traverse on the ledge to the left valley edge and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Seismograf
Through the chimney and the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Seismograf
From the valley through cracks, a crack and the wall directly over 7 BH into a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čihadlo
From the right, wall to the edge. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Čihadlo
Middle of the S wall to the ledge and traverse right to the edge. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Ztráta času
To the left of the Po vopici route, wall directly over 2 BH into holes and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ztráta času
In the right part of the massif, wall into the curved crack, through it and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Ztráta času
Wall directly over the 1st BH to the 2nd BH, right and over the 3rd - 5th BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čihadlo
Plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Čihadlo
Valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čihadlo
From the block below the N edge to the left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
On the S side to the right of the Protektor route, through the middle of the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Visuté zahrady
On the S side about 4 m to the right of the corner, up a crack to the top (rappel point… Rock Climbing

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