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Climbing at 04. Čertův roh

138 routes
14 areas
2–8+/9- grades

Čertův roh on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 140 routes – most on Assiniboin and Turek, with more on Myslivecká věž, Žehlička, Holubník and Chiricahuas. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8+/9-.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 04. Čertův roh has 138 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8+/9-. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80723, 14.18322

4+
Žehlička
In the plateau wall via a crack to a large ledge and traverse left or right into the NW… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Žehlička
As per the "Old Path" route, all the way to the valley side, then diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Prérie
Via the Hatátitlá route's crack to the end and up the wall to K. Along the right edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Slídil
Via the Beer Route over K to 2nd K. Straight up the pillar over K further to the 3rd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zálesák
From the lowest point to the right in the valley wall, along the N edge over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Slídil
To the left of the "Old Path" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Slídil
Up the middle of the valley wall via K to 2nd K. To the left via a small pinnacle onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Slídil
To the left of the "Solo Walk" to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Slídil
From the block, along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Slídil
Via the right part of the valley wall to K, along the crack to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Zálesák
About 4 m left of the Whitsun Crack start, through the inner chimney to the mezzanine. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Zálesák
About 4 m left of the Coatimundi route start, along the crack and through the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Chiricahuas
Right on the N side through the chimney to the saddle. Along the NE edge over the BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Chiricahuas
Along the SE edge to the K and up the wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Chiricahuas
Up the middle of the E wall over two bolts directly to the abseil bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Chiricahuas
From the S saddle, left of the View Area start, through the crack to the balcony, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Tomahowks
From the N side, from the ledge on Chiricahuas, traverse/jump to the summit of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance to the balcony in the gully on the W side. Right of the NW… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Tomahowks
From the massif on the W side, traverse/jump to the summit of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tomahowks
From the cave near Chiricahuas, left through the chimney to the saddle between the rocks.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance into the gully between Tomahowsk and Chiricahuas. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Chiricahuas
Left of the start of the Jeskynní komín (Cave Chimney) route, through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Chiricahuas
From S into the cave and right onto the block. Through the chimney past the wedged stone… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance to the balconies in the gully. Along the sharp upper (NW)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Turek
Via the SW edge to the ledge and right along the edge via the face in the S face to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Turek
To the right of the start of the Old Path, via a pillar to the S ledge and then via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Mescalero
From the windward side, traverse left and via the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Mescalero
Via the windward edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Tomahowks
To the left on the E side, via a crack to the bolt (BH). Via the 'sokolík' crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Tomahowks
From the valley side, briefly via a chimney between the tower and the massif to a small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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