Čertův roh on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 140 routes – most on Assiniboin and Turek, with more on Myslivecká věž, Žehlička, Holubník and Chiricahuas. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8+/9-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 04. Čertův roh has 138 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8+/9-. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Assiniboin Turek Myslivecká věž Žehlička Holubník Chiricahuas Vlkouší stěna Tomahowks Zálesák Slídil Prérie Holoubě Mescalero Boubín
6
Krajina posedlá tmou
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, left of the Powderface route, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Pozdní láska
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, right of the Powderface route, wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Spárový převis
In the large NE corner about 2 m left of the start of the Powderface route, chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Vzpomínky do sedla zvou
To the right of the right valley (NE) edge via a crack over an overhang, left to the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Powderface
In the large NE corner via a prominent corner crack, chimney and crack over an overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Ribannino srdce
Ascending notch of the New Valley Route to the pillar and left wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Údolní cesta
Right in the gully between Holubník and Assiniboin through the corner over blocks to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Nová údolní cesta
From the gorge between Holubník and Assiniboin, the notch under the overhang. Left above… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Počátek
Short climb up the New Valley Route's starting notch and left along the wall and blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
From the start of the Southeast Route, left along the wall to K and further slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Konec
From the start of the Southeast Route, directly up the wall to K at the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Jihovýchodní cesta
To the right on the S side of the W balcony, up the wall to the right beyond the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Severní cesta
On the plateau (S) side of the forepeak, about 5 m left of the Old Route's chimney, climb… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
?
Přechodová varianta (Stará cesta)
On the plateau side from the West over blocks to the long forepeak and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Západní cesta
On the plateau side in the middle on the W side of the main summit via a crack in the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Náhorní cesta
On the plateau side through the Old Route's chimney to the saddle between the rocks. Left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Stará cesta
On the plateau side from the West through a short chimney between the forepeak and the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Krátká cesta
From the start of the Southwest Route from the small balcony, up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay