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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Ostrov - 2 - východní část 1367 routes Ostrov - 3 - jižní část 1246 routes Ostrov - 1 - severní část 654 routes Ostrov - 4 - západní část 487 routes
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5
Balkónová věž
From the balcony under the overhang, traverse left and along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Balkónová věž
From the space between the tower and the 'Bitten' tower, follow the wetness via K to the… Rock Climbing
5
Balkónová věž
Through the center of the northwest face to the ring. Up the wall and chimney onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Balkónová věž
From the east, through the narrow passage over the threshold to the bivouac. Right onto… Rock Climbing
3
Balkónová věž
Up the corner crack in the right part of the northwest (valley) face, later along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the bivouac, traverse the corner to the platform and right of the 'Easy Route', up…
5+
Balkónová věž
In the NE face, via an overhanging corner past a bolt to a large balcony. Then follow the… Rock Climbing
4+
Rozcestník
Up the corner crack to the ledge, traverse to the slings (belay). Up the wall via K to…
4+
Rozcestník
On the left, up the east face, corner to the top.
5
Rozcestník
On the right in the wall, via K to the slings (belay).
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the saddle by the Balcony Tower, a short descent along the edge to the ledge and up…
4-
Vykousnutá věžička
A little below the upper saddle of the Balcony Tower, traverse to the edge. Along the…
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the platform, up the short chimney to the summit.
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the platform, traverse left to the crack.
4+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the north, take the old route to the Balcony Tower, on the left at the bivouac,…
4-
Kóta 7
In the narrow east face, follow the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kóta 7
In the narrow east face, follow the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kóta 7
On the right in the wall, up the chimney with the large wedged block to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kóta 7
Up the crack in the middle of the slab to the ring, over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kóta 7
On the left in the valley face, diagonally right to the 1st bolt. Difficultly to the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Through the center of the north face via a crack to K. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Through the center of the east face via K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kóta 7
Left of the crack, a traverse into the larger chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
From the balcony on the left in the north face, drop into the face and left to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
In the right part of the north face, from the boulder, climb the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing
?
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Far right in the north face, follow the crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing
2+
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Completely to the left in the south wall into the deep chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
A wide crack in the middle of the south wall to K. Through the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
On the right in the south face, diagonally right to the balcony. Along the wall by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
To the left in the south wall, a short chimney to the balcony. Up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing

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