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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Ostrov - 2 - východní část 1367 routes Ostrov - 3 - jižní část 1246 routes Ostrov - 1 - severní část 654 routes Ostrov - 4 - západní část 487 routes
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2
Pivní kámen
From the block in the south, step over and up the wall to the summit.
2
Pivní kámen
To the left of the Old Path to the balcony and by the gully to the summit.
2+
Vinný kámen
To the left in the east wall, near the gully to the summit.
4-
Vinný kámen
To the right in the east wall, a short crack and up the wall to the summit.
2
Vinný kámen
Along the SE edge to the summit.
3
Vinný kámen
On the SW corner, left onto the sloping Slab and left along it to the crack. Take it to…
4-
Vinný kámen
From the overgrown balcony on the north side, right to the point and right around the…
2+
Pivní kámen
To the right in the west wall, by a double chimney to the summit.
6-
Teniska
To the right in the valley wall to the ring. Right along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Teniska
To the left of the valley path, over the overhang into the crack, and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Teniska
To the right of St. c. with a chimney and higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Teniska
Right in the upland face, via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Teniska
Along the SW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Dvojitá hlava
From the abseil point of the Last Tower, jump to the step and further along the Old Route. Rock Climbing
4-
Dvojitá hlava
From the fore-rock via chimney over the overhang and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Teniska
Completely right in the (north) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Teniska
Via the face below the abseil point directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojitá hlava
Through the center of the south face to the ring, over the ring of the route "Everyday… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dvojitá hlava
In the SW edge via the crack over the hourglass and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dvojitá hlava
Along the SE edge around the hole to the ledge. Right and along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá hlava
Between the towers, via cracks to the large ledge below the summit, where the route joins… Rock Climbing
4-
Dvojitá hlava
In the left part of the northern valley face, via cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá hlava
Left in the upland (south) face via chimney and face to the ring. Via the gully to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá hlava
Right in the upland (south) face directly to the crack and along it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá hlava
Following the Old Route to the large ledge. Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojitá hlava
From the west, via chimney to the large balcony, higher up like the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojitá hlava
From the gully, traverse left around the west edge to the ledge. Left to the crack, up… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá hlava
In the right part of the valley face, through the hole into the crack and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Habešanka
5
Habešanka

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