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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Levá stěna nebes
Start in the right part of the Left Wall of Heavens (3m right of the Descent Rock Gully).… Rock Climbing
5
Bertholdův prst
Up the valley wall of the tower. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Řehořova stěna
Through the corner right from the base of Řehoř's chimney onto the sloping slabs. Along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Řehořova stěna
Middle of the wall along slabs to a large nest (bivouac site). From there, right to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Bertholdův prst
Via a prominent indentation into the "Crown Route" and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Bertholdův prst
Left or right into the middle of the plateau wall and up the wall around the rappel ring… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Bertholdův prst
Left edge below the summit wall. Here slightly left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3+
Dvojštít (Maturita) a Školka
Right of the plateau wall (directly from the tourist path) up the wall over 4 rivets to… Rock Climbing
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, via the crack that separates the pillars, to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
By corner to the top (right of the previous route) and left for rappelling. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right part of the wall, right of the rock block, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks… Rock Climbing
4
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Dvojštít (Maturita) a Školka
The wall consists of several downward-sloping small pillars. The ascent leads through the… Rock Climbing
5-
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the right part of the "trough" (over a jammed boulder) to the platform (bolt… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Astra (Oddychová skála)
The entry is the left smooth corner of the "trough" (bolt hook). Higher up then via a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right side wall of the recess is a slightly overhanging and widening crack. Follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the middle pillar to the "Old Route". Higher right into a wide crack and like … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Malé varhany
Middle of the middle pillar over a rivet to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Malé varhany
By corner right of the flat boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Malé varhany
The entry is completely to the right via a fine crack. Traverse to the pillar and up it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the left part of the wall via a hand crack to the top. (bolt hook) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the corner diagonally down the steps along the edge and left through a short chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the grassy platform in the left part of the wall via a small corner, higher up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4+
Malé varhany
N from a flat boulder. Up a right-angled corner to the top. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
2
Malé varhany
By crack in the left side wall of the Small Organ. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Malé varhany
A bit left of 'Stolová' via a vertical crack (rivet), then slightly left, back into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Velké varhany
Boulder leading up a short, vertical wall (2x rivet) on the slope behind the Great Organ. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malé varhany
From the platform to the N (clock) to the edge and along it over 3 bolt hooks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Velké varhany
To the right behind the previous pillar is a deep couloir. From there into the cave and… Rock Climbing
4
Velké varhany
The route leads to a separate turret in the (S) part of the Great Organ. Short wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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