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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Velké varhany
The route leads to a separate turret in the (S) part of the Great Organ. Short wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Velké varhany
Up the middle right of the prominent pillar to the top (glue-in bolts). Rock Climbing
4+
Velké varhany
The (W) wall of Velké varhany is formed by two prominent flutes (pillars) which create a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Velké varhany
Up the left wall of the left pillar of Velké varhany over a bolt to a piton and a second… Rock Climbing
6
Velké varhany
Up the left pillar in the (W) wall of Velké varhany over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Skautská věž (Větrná)
From the valley part, left along the pillar. Rock Climbing
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Through the corner to the right, to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Skautská věž (Větrná)
From the 1st piton of the “Fripp” route, left, directly onto the edge and higher up the… Rock Climbing
5
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route leads to the left of the Valley Route. Approach from the same place as “Údolka”… Rock Climbing
4-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
To the right of the pillar, up an overhanging corner for about 2 m, then onto the right… Rock Climbing
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Over the wedged boulder to the right into the corner. Up the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Up the overhanging corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Along the sloping (S) slabs below the overhanging part. Bypass it from the right, up a… Rock Climbing
4
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route is to the right, at the very end of the plateau wall. Up a gently sloping wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
In the left part of the plateau wall, a narrow crack descends. Up this for about 6 m to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Up a prominent crack in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Up the front wall into the upper crack. Rock Climbing
5
Skautská věž (Větrná)
In the center of the plateau wall is a prominent pillar. Along the right edge of this… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Vertical wall
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route is about 10 m below the left edge. Up over a slight overhang to a ledge. From… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
From the SK, which is on a spacious ledge probably just right of the right wall of the… Rock Climbing
5
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
To the right of the 'Brussels' hollow is a wide green corner. Through the corner to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
In the right part of the Dance Hall (to the right of 'Mašinka') by a prominent edge over… Rock Climbing
3+
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
Through the corner and crack to the grassy platform. Further as Owl's Route. Rock Climbing
3
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
The route starts at the very beginning of the right part of the Dance Hall. Through… Rock Climbing
4
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
In the middle of the wall, a short traverse into the left part of the depression and up… Rock Climbing
7-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
Up the left part of the massive 'Chimney' pillar under the overhang, over it and up the… Rock Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
The route starts at the VK stand from the grassy ledge above the Mašinka route. Up the… Rock Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
At the end of the Taneční sál, to the right of the chimney, there is a massive and high… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
To the left of 'Pardubická' up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
By a prominent pillar to the right of the 'Tango' hollow, up to the grassy terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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