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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Východní hřebenovka
Access from the right side of the ridge about 10 meters above its lowest point, below a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Východní stěna
Via a crack, later a fissure in the wall, to the right of the chimney-like crack. Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Below 'Děčínský odkaz' through a crack in the slab, which curves to the right in the… Rock Climbing
5-
Východní stěna
N is through the corner below 'Děčínský odkaz'. Through it to a small platform behind the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
Along the slanted platforms to a place where a roughly 35 m high crack is visible on the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Východní stěna
The start (N) is from where the rocks extend deepest into the forest. Via several… Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
Through the corner in the lower part of the wall to a wide ledge. From there, via the … Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
Below the overhang, the start of the corner is like 'Dirty'. From there, however, a long…
5
Východní stěna
Into the corner and over the lower overhang. N like 'Dirty'. However, we don't continue…
5+
Východní stěna
Over steps below the left rock couloirs (bounding the 'Memories of Venca' pillar on the… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní stěna
The route leads in the upper part through a crack in the pillar that is between both rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Východní stěna
Some meters like 'Necky'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar. Through the shallow… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5-
Východní stěna
The start (N) is some meters to the right of 'Necek'. Through the corner over 2 rocks to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Východní stěna
To the rock like 'Snake Corner'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar towards the bolt… Rock Climbing
5-
Východní stěna
Over the overhang on the left side. Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Through a distinct, in places overhanging corner, which defines the 'zl' (likely… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní stěna
Through the vertical corner to the right of 'Crown'. In the upper part, follow the wide… Rock Climbing
6-
Východní stěna
Left of the 'Crown' overhang, there's an indentation ending in a sloping slab at the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
In the very left (E) part of the wall, there is a prominent small pillar. Up it, over the… Rock Climbing
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the "Sunday" route to the first small platform (bolt). 2 m straight through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the right of the N route "Sunday", via a crack over the rock and 2 bolts to the shelf… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the crack on the edge of the (S) and (Z) walls to its end. Then to the ridge and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Biskupská stolice - sever
A few meters on the "Pope's Route". Further up the wall to the left onto a detached block… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Through the corner depression from the right side of the small tower under the overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
From the first stance of "Středová" (Central) T down into the valley wall and further up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Along the (NW) edge, later up the wall to a ledge (3 bolts). The top is brittle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the chimney, later to the right and up the pillar wall to the top of the small tower. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the crack-chimney, which separates the small tower on its left side, over the wedged… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
In the lower part (E) of the wall, there is a vertical crack in the smooth wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
A prominent depression extends across the central wall. Approach here via grassy steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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