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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the stance at the birch tree under the crack like "Nedělní" (Sunday). However, further… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the right of "Široký žlab" (Wide Gully) rises a small pillar, split by a right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
V. Skokan, Central wall of the flat pillar, left of the "Středová" (Central) corner. In… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the upper right part of the wall, briefly up a corner to a rocky step. Through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the right part (W) of the wall to the right of the sharp edge, up a crack (2 pitons)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
From the small platform left into the corner crack and up that. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Polední pilíř - Záclony
From the starting bolt, right up the small crack over a piton and another bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Polední pilíř - Záclony
From the starting bolt, left up the small crack over 2 bolts to the stance at the bolt on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Below the white and smooth overhang in the right part of the valley wall of the pillar.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Approximately to the right (W) of the wall of Polední pillar, a low, sharply edged small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Below the overhang like "Nebeská". However, the route does not continue under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Through the smooth, trough-like depression up the wall. Over steps to the ridge and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the lower part (W) of the wall of Polední pillar, to the right of "Polední spára" is a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Up the pillar to the left of "Polední spára" over a piton and bolt to its summit to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
The route leads along the pillar to the right of "Metla". Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
The back of the pillar is formed by a double crack. Start with the right part up to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Along the pillar to the left of "Metla". (2 bolts + piton) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Polední pilíř - levá část
Via a crack to the left of "Metla" (Whip) for about 40 m to a balcony. To the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Polední pilíř - levá část
The route starts on the left valley edge of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar). Up a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - levá část
In the lower part of the left side wall of the pillar, there is an indentation ending in… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - levá část
Through a sharp corner to the right of "Smyčková" (Loop) to a small slab (4+). A wider,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - levá část
Approximately halfway up the couloir, in the left wall of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar),… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
In the right part of the wall, where it transitions into a rock amphitheater, there is a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through cracks and higher up a wider crack under a prominent overhang. Over the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Via a crack to the right of "Bivouac Chimney" to a rappelling ring and from there to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
11
Polední pilíř - levá část
The route starts in the upper part of the left side wall of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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