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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
To the right of the Kapsář route up a smooth corner, higher up a crack to a platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Kozí (JV) pilíře
A distinct corner formed by the right-hand (lower) pillar on its left side. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
From the platform across the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Easy terrain to the terrace below the left (higher) pillar. Up the blunt edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Kozí (JV) pilíře
About 3 m to the right of 'Kozí', up the crack (rock) onto the sloping platform, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+/9-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the wall of the small pillar, to the right of Kozí c. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Ďáblova kazatelna
A double crack descends down the (SW) wall under SK, which disappears in the lower part.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
To the right in the (W) wall along the edge to the top. (1 ring, 1 bolt) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the steep wall of the left pillar along the crack (rock) briefly to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
The start is in the right part of the wall. Easy terrain in the fall line to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
To the small platform like previous routes or by recess from the right. In the right part… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up 2 m to the right of 'Invalidní'. Across, over rock to the ledge, up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
In the right part of the wall under the overhang. Up to the crack, from the right into… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Onto the ledge to the right of 'Invalidní' and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up the prominent pillar to the right of 'Šťovíkové' to the top - rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5-
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
By the first crack, broken to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
By the second crack, broken to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5+
Stěna u Pašeráka
The start is on the ramp right of Ďáblova kazatelna, between two ribs. Chimneying, then… Rock Climbing Route on sun
1
Stěna u Pašeráka
Over the rocks towards Ďáblova kazatelna into the shallow gully. Up it into the cave,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Stěna u Pašeráka
Right of 'Sluneční' up the crack to the platform, down to the pillar and up it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Stěna u Pašeráka
Up the pillar in the left part of the wall across two bolts. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Through a crack in the right part of the small wall sections located to the left of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Stěna u Pašeráka
The start is the same as 'Sluneční'. Up the indentation by the right wall (2x bolt),… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Center of the truncated pillar to its top. From there, a fall traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Jižní stěna
From the right side, up the chimney to the truncated pillar. A fall into the wall and up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Jižní stěna
From the platform of the truncated pillar, the route continues through the center of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Jižní stěna
In the right part of the Ohnisko wall, in the place where a large hawthorn bush grew,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
1
Jižní stěna
Right of Ohnisko up the steps to the old oak tree. Down the steps towards Ohnisko.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Start from the platform right of route 'Hlohová šestka'. Up the edge across 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Climb up the steps under the overhang (right of 'Levá zmýlená'). Up the right narrower… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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