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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Jižní stěna
Start is on the left side of the truncated pillar that is right of Ohnisko. Up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4-
Jižní stěna
In the left part of Ohnisko is a corner formed in the lower part by a double crack, which… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Traverse right from the indentations of routes 'Cannabis' and 'Levá zmýlená' is a pillar,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Jižní stěna
Traverse right from 'Hluboká', up the pillar across two bolts to the balcony. (VK) Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Jižní stěna
In the highest part of the South Wall is a wide indentation with two cracks running down.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Take route 'Hluboká' up to the balcony. Then traverse right, center of the pillar along… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Jižní stěna
Climb easily up the steps to a platform. From the platform traverse right into the corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Jižní stěna
Up the pillar right of 'Hluboká' across three bolts to the balcony. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Up the small pillar and shallow crack to the platform where the corner crack begins (to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Climb up the wall to a platform below the overhanging crack. Take the crack to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Climb up steps to a platform below the 'Tooth Crack'. Traverse right to the nubbin by the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Traverse to the crack in the wall. Poor protection. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Up the pillar as 'Dome'. Above the first boulder, move to the left into the shallow crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Jižní stěna
Climb easily up the low steps to a platform located approximately on the (E) wall. A long… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Jižní stěna
Directly under the overhang and to the bolt. From the bolt directly into the indistinct… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Under the overhang the same as 'Squire's Route'. Traverse under the overhang (boulder) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Jižní stěna
Start is directly up the wall below the prominent overhang, which is in the lower part (S… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Jižní stěna
To the right under the lower overhang of the Rock Castle. Traverse to the left under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
?
Jižní stěna
Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the lower overhang, a narrow pillar rises from the wall, which in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
2
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
The Courtyard is bordered on the right side by the mighty crenellations of the Rock… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Start the same as 'Old Route' to the prominent corner. In the left part (S) of the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Briefly chimney to the right of 'Koutová' onto the ridge. (2 bolts) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
2
Jižní stěna
Through the deep depression at the left end of the wall, to the place where 'Hřebenovka'… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4-
Jižní stěna
Through the shallow groove on the left edge of the wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Deep in Bilanina's Cave, climb the wall or chimney upwards under the wedged boulder, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Chimney between the side wall of the Overhanging Pillar and the right wall of Bilanina's… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Start to the right of the 'Old Route'. Onto a step and then up a corner, in the upper… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
see statement of the summit commission: Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
To the left of the rock hollow is a long, narrow pillar. The route leads directly along… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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