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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right below 'Skobova cesta' (Skoba's Way) is a large boulder, on whose top two… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Up the right corner of the chimney under the bulge into a wide crack. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
In the upper part, directly up the right crack up the wall (to the right of the pillar). Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend the wall where it touches Skoba's Hole. About 15 m up the wall to the 2nd large… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Traverse up the wall of the pillar, to the right of the route "Change", via three rivets… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
At the end of the left wall of the amphitheater (left of Skoba's Hole) and to the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
From the 2nd large rock, traverse the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Behind the pillar, towards the inside of the amphitheater, there is a recess in the lower… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Through the recess in the middle of the prominent, approximately 40 m high pillar, under… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up the left edge of the pillar via 3 rivets. To the top of the Summit Book (30 m). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend from the block to the wall of the pillar, around two rivets to the cracks in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
To the right of 'Stolen' at the end of the amphitheater is a high, perpendicular pillar,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend on the edge of the pillar in the back of the amphitheater. Rightwards downwards… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
From the right side of the low pillar through a recess to a tree. From the tree into a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up a short crack to the right of the 'Gothic Window' to a small pillar with a tree. From… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Further towards the amphitheater is a characteristic recess in the shape of a Gothic… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Left of the North route there is a short pillar with a crack in the upper part. Over the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
A part of the "Mirrors" wall forms a pillar through which the ascent runs. A crack leads… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
To the right of 'Girl' there is a thin crack in the wall. Through the crack (1st short… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up a pillar (left of the "Gothic Window") via 3 rivets to a belay station under the route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Ascend from a grassy platform in the left wall of the amphitheater (belay station with a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Through a corner and crack, left of 'Gothic Window' onto a sloping slab (partly overgrown… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
3
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Where Tiger's Ladder disappears in the amphitheater, a corner rises, in whose lower part… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Střední jižní pilíř
The start is to the right at the end of the wall. Up the wall under the small crack … Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
is in the lower part of Tygřím žebříku". Straight up in the middle of the prominent slab,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up Tygřím žebříkem under the smooth slab ("Zrcadlo"), which is bounded on the left by a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
5
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Start from Tygrov's ladder on the edge left of the upper part of "Poslední". Along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Up the pillar left of 'Tygr's crack'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
1
Střední jižní pilíř
From the top of the Central South Pillar, a sloping ledge runs down to the right.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Střední jižní pilíř
From 'Baldachýn' there is a prominent smooth corner. Over and start in the corner and up… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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