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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

7
Střední jižní pilíř
Start next to the 'Hladký kout' route, over the overhang (expansion bolt) to a step in… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Střední jižní pilíř
At the end of the right wall of the Central South Pillar is a large corner ending in a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Střední jižní pilíř
Under the overhang to the left and straight up. Rock Climbing Route on sun
8-
Střední jižní pilíř
Up the wall straight up under the overhang of 'Baldachýn'. Up the middle of the overhang… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Střední jižní pilíř
Right of 'Baldachýn' up the rounded pillar over two rings to Tygřův žebřík. Originally a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
The route starts on the right side of the slightly protruding pillar between the routes … Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
Up the indistinct and open corner (1st ring) under the summit slab intersected by a thin… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Střední jižní pilíř
Right of 'Vylomené' there is a corner in the wall. Up the corner over two rings under the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Střední jižní pilíř
The start of the route is under the yellow broken spot in the lower part of the wall. Up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Střední jižní pilíř
Straight over the yellow break. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Střední jižní pilíř
Up the wall straight up under the crack and then up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
Straight up the middle of the pillar over the overhang and up the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
Straight up the middle of the pillar (sk., 2 bolts) to the platform to the 3rd ring of…
6-
Střední jižní pilíř
Up in the fall line of the pillar. Up the sloping slabs under the overhang. Up the corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
Up the fine cracks that run through the middle of the pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5
Střední jižní pilíř
To the balcony like 'Divná'. From the balcony, take the crack to the prominent edge left… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Střední jižní pilíř
Up a sloping crack and higher up a small fissure to a small pulpit, then to the right. Up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Střední jižní pilíř
From the platform above the starting corner, go left from the expansion bolts to a step.… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Střední jižní pilíř
Middle of the pillar (4 bolts) above the Y-shaped crack. Protection placed from above. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Střední jižní pilíř
Up a short corner to the right of 'Ypsilonová' to a platform. From there to the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Střední jižní pilíř
The left side wall of the Middle Southern Pillar is split by a Y-shaped crack.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
4-
Levý jižní amfiteátr
In the right part of the amphitheater, to the right of a white break, up a corner. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
To the right of 'Zarostlé' (Overgrown) via terraces and steps. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Completely in the right corner of the amphitheater are three towers. Initially left onto… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
To the right of N (North) up a wide corner crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Opposite 'Čima' is a smooth and overhanging side wall of the pillar. Up it via two bolts. Rock Climbing Route on sun
7-
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the right part of the couloir via steps under a slightly overhanging pillar. Traverse… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the chimney crack in the shallowest part of the hollow, generally at the end of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Levý jižní amfiteátr
At the end of the amphitheater is a striking high pillar. Up the middle of the pillar. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the hollow under the overhang, traverse left over it into the crack and up that. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun

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