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Climbing at Bořeň

470 routes
4 areas
1–11 grades

Bořeň (539 m) is a phonolite hill about 2 km south of Bílina on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, above the road from Most to Bílina. Seen from the north-west it resembles a reclining lion; it is often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe. The hill is a national nature reserve with mixed scree forest, rocky steppes, outcrops and boulder fields, crossed by an educational trail to the summit and its views.

Bořeň is one of the legendary climbing mountains of the Czech Republic – climbing is on phonolite pillars and walls, mostly trad. The routes are described in a guidebook by Stanislav Emingr and Ladislav Vörös. As it is a national nature reserve, climbing follows nature-protection conditions – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association. The Bílina information centre can help with local information.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Bořeň has 470 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Roughly upwards. In the left wall of the Courtyard are rock hollows. The ascent leads… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Central pillar, to the left of the route 'Under the Rappel'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
At the very end of the Courtyard, under the roof of the Overhanging Pillar, there is a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4-
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Where the Overhanging Pillar touches the wall, a crack falls down its left side. Follow… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Central pillar between the routes 'New Left' and 'New Right' over a boulder and two bolts… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
5
Pravý jižní pilíř
To the right of 'Lovecka' (Hunting route), there is a vertical, narrow crack (fissure) in… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
In the left wall of the Nadvoří (Courtyard) there is a chimney that is finished with a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
To the right of 'Hornicka' (Mining route) there is a recess in the wall, through which a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
The route leads through a shallow depression to the right of 'South'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up the prominent corner in the fall line of the pillar (over 2 added rings) upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up the corner like 'Old Way', but then over an overhanging crack left from the corner … Rock Climbing Route on sun
11
Pravý jižní pilíř
Via 'Lovecka' (Hunting route) up to the level of the overhang. Step down onto the top of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Pravý jižní pilíř
To the left of 'Teplicke' via 2 rivets upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Wider corner crack to the tree on the next platform, straight up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up left or center, but most often to the right under the balcony. From the balcony then: … Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
In the place where the right wall of the amphitheater transitions into the Right Southern… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Slightly overhanging crack left from 'Variant stredem' to the platform, wider crack left… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Pravý jižní pilíř
Up to the ledge, through the left crack to the next ledge, and from there through a hand… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Crack along the edge, left from 'Wide Crack', to a ledge (belay). Along the edge over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
At the entrance to the amphitheater, in the right wall, is a prominent wide crack ending… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
The middle of the wide pillar that emerges approximately from the middle of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
4+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Through the corner to the right of 'Wide Crack' over a small bulge (sling) to the balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
8
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right of 'Midnight', over a sling to a ring. Over the overhanging edge and up the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
6+
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
A few meters below 'Luk' (Arch), a thin crack runs in the wall, along which there are… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
In the right part of the amphitheater, about 10 m below 'Skobova cesta' (Skoba's Way)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
7-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
To the right of 'Luk' (Arch) route, briefly through a corner (sling) and right across the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Up the wall via bolts to the 2nd ring of the 'Rose for JL' route. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Through a recess (sharp corner), left from the striking corner of the 'Midnight' route,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
The route leads through a crack that intersects the right wall of the chimney. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
From the yellow break, go straight up. Rock Climbing Route on sun

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