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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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2
Bobek
Between Malá Krkavčí and the tower, through the recess and wall, n. v. (not verified/no… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Malá krkavčí stěna
From the top of Bobek, through the broken recess, n. t. (no traverse). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Velká krkavčí stěna
In the left part of the wall, through the recess and wall over 9 rivets to the belay ring.
4
Velikonoční věž
From S, through the crack and chimney, n. v. (not verified/no summit). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5
Velikonoční věž
From the 1st Bh of Nouzový východ (Emergency Exit), through the wall over 5 Bh, n. v. … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malá krkavčí stěna
Through the middle of the South complete wall over 3 Bh to the belay Bh.
5
Galerie
To the left of Vzdušná cesta (Air Route), through the wall over 7 Bh to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
1
Hruška
From SE, through the gully, n. t. (no traverse). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Galerie
In the right part of the wall, through the crack-chimney over 3 Bh to the little tower… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Velikonoční věž
From SW, through the chimney between the Gallery and the little tower, n. v. (not… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
1
Špunt
Via the upper wall, n. v. (not verified/no summit). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hruška
Through the middle of the recessed wall over 2 Bh to the belay ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Špunt
From SW, through the slabby wall over 2 Bh, n. v. (not verified/no summit). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Hruška
In the left part of the recessed wall over 2 Bh to the belay ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Hroch
Through the right part of the wall over 4 Bh to the belay ring.
6
Bivaková stěna
In the middle of the wall with an overhang and directly over 3 Bh to the belay ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Polární stěna
In the center of the wall, diagonally to the left and with left corner over 3 Bh to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bivaková stěna
In the right part of the wall over 3 Bh to the belay ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Polární stěna
In the center of the wall, overhanging pillar via 4 Bh to the belay ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Polární stěna
In the left part of the wall, easy terrain to the curved crack and along it (3 bolts) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Levý masiv
On the left edge of the wall, crack along the protruding pillar n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
3
Levý masiv
At the end of the massif, short corner n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
3
Levý masiv
Left of the Barbar route, crack diagonally to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Levý masiv
Edge of the pillar left of Zlaté oko (3 bh) n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Levý masiv
Center of the distinct pillar (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Levý masiv
Left of the distinct pillar, corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
4
Levý masiv
Right of the Příjemná route, distinct corner (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
4
Levý masiv
Crack to the funnel and the left part n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Levý masiv
In the left part of the wall over the sloping pillar and crack to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Levý masiv
Left of the Příjemná route, over the overhanging pillar (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow

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