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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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5
Stěna vodopádu
Left side of the first pillar (3 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7
Výří věže - malý výr
From the 2nd belay of the Serepes route to the Great Owl, a short descent to a platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+
Výří věže - velký výr
In the right part of the valley wall (7 bh) to the 1st belay. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
6+
Výří věže - velký výr
In the center of the valley wall, via a system of corners to the terrace (10 rivets).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7
Výří věže - velký výr
From the terrace from the 2nd belay of the Serepes route, along the edge (8 bh and rivets… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Výří věže - malý výr
To the left of the waterfall, through a corner (2 bh), then to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Through the corner to the right of Piňdi (rivet) onto a sloping ramp (rappelling ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Výří věže - velký výr
From the large terrace to the left over blocks to the crack. To the right along the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7
Výří věže - velký výr
In the left part of the valley wall over steps and the left corner to a large terrace (45… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
2
Výří věže - velký výr
At the beginning of the large gorge to the right, further along a wide gully with trees,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Čertova zahrádka
From the saddle between the tower and the wall slab (3 rivets) to the ridge and via it (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Čertova zahrádka
From the saddle to the left of the devil's hoof (3 rivets) to the 5th rivet of the devil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Kulatá bába
From the SE gorge into the saddle between the tower and the devil's fence. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
In the right central part of the gorge, there is a distinct smooth corner. Over a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Left part of the wall (3 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Pravá strana rokle . západní stěny výrů
Via the first pillar in the right part of the gorge (13 bh) to the rappelling ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
2
Kulatá bába
From the saddle between the tower and the devil's garden, via the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Velký sokol
Several meters to the right of the distinctive corner of the Mariana Trench, up a stepped… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Velký sokol
Left side of a distinctive corner (4 rivets) to a smooth slab (belay). Right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
From the bivouac through indentations and small corners, at the top up a vertical slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
Up the pillar between Hrátky s čertem (Playing with the Devil) and Nouzový východ … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Velký sokol
From the bivouac up a smooth slab and over roof-like overhangs (3 bolts) to the bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
To the right of Centrála (Central) up the small pillar (rivet) to the right through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Velký sokol
Several meters from the Mariana Trench by a distinct edge (4 rivets) to a shared belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5-
Velký sokol
To the right of the bivouac up the slab (2 rivets), further through a system of small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Velký sokol
Up the wall to the right of the beech tree to the chipped block. Further directly to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Velký sokol
About 20 m from Hlavní rokle (Main Gully) up the slab into the corner, further directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Velký sokol
To the left of the beech tree through the corner, over the overhang, slab and up steps to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Velký sokol
From the terrace halfway up the wall through the corner to the left of the chipped block … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7
Velký sokol
Directly between Měsíc (Moon) and Koutová (Corner Route), at the top like Koutová to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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