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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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1
Havraní stěna
Via the left slanting green small wall in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the left edge of the first block to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the corner in the middle of the first block from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the right edge of the first block to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Left of the South Wall route up the wall (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
From the 'clocks' of the S wall route directly (2 K, 2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Right in the S wall via an overhanging edge (3 bh) diagonally left into the wall, belay… Rock Climbing
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the S wall (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the wall to a ledge, traverse left to the edge and up along it to the level of… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the E wall directly (Bh) to the ring of route E wall, then directly (4 Bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall to a sloping ledge, left along the… Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wall along a crack (8 bh, K, 2 rivets) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
In the left part of the valley wall, through a crack to a plateau in the E wall, right… Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
From the 4th bh of the North Route, up the wall into the Traverz route and up the wall (2… Rock Climbing
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Left in the W wall near the edge into the Traverz route, which we cross and continue… Rock Climbing
4
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Up the narrow W wall by crossing the Traverz route (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Vaňova
From the edge to the ledge, then further along the edge n. v. (bh) Rock Climbing
4
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Start on the W edge, left across the N wall to the E edge, then further along the edge n.… Rock Climbing
4
Strážce Vaňova
Left of Angreštová wall (2 bh) to the edge and via the route For Whom the Bell Tolls n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Completely to the left in the upper wall, through a crack to a sloping ledge. From there… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Right of Náhorní crack, diagonally right upwards through the wall into a fissure, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Overhanging high crack in the S wall (4 K, 3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Through a fissure in the left part of the upper wall, later via a crack n. v. (K, 5 bh) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Strážce Vaňova
Through a hollow into the corner (belay), up the wall (bh) to the left onto a ledge on… Rock Climbing
4
Strážce Vaňova
Between the routes Náhorní crack and Spartakiádní direttissima directly (K, 4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Left in the valley wall (K), up into the crack, through the crack and wall (6 bh) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Overhanging edge (K) to the balcony (bh), further along the edge (2 bh) to the stance.… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Vaňova
In the narrow E wall through the chimney (K), which disappears higher up, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Along the left valley edge through an overhanging crack (3 bh) to the balcony of the… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Vaňova
In the right part of the plateau wall through a crack to the edge and along it (K, 2 sk,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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