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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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7+
Frankenjura
In the left part of the massif via a wall under the overhang (bh), difficultly over it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Frankenjura
Via the right upper edge a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Frankenjura
In the left part of the valley wall via a slab (bh) to an overhanging crack and along it … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Frankenjura
From the upper side on the left along a small corner or crack in the middle of the wall a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Frankenjura
In the middle part of the valley wall from the stone via a wall (3 bh) to the 4th bh of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Frankenjura
In the right part of the valley wall along the overhanging crack into a wide chimney (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
EC věž
Via a V-shaped wall a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
EC věž
In the upper side a. s. Rock Climbing
8-
Neklidný pstruh
bh a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Neklidný pstruh
Up the left chimney (3 bh) and to the right up the sloping wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Neklidný pstruh
Up the right chimney (3 bh) n. v. Danger of falling rocks at the top! Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Nanověž
Right edge of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kašpárkův masiv
In the left part of the massif, a slab (bh) and along a crack and corner (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Nanověž
On the right side of the S wall along the rib (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Nanověž
On the left side of the valley wall under the overhang (bh) and a crack (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
2
Nanověž
Center of the sloping S wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
1
Nanověž
Anywhere on the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Betonárka
In the right part of the massif, by the wall, then up. Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Betonárka
Traverse the massif from left to right. Fixed belay Route in shadow
4
Betonárka
Left part of the pillar (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Betonárka
On the left, in the V-shaped wall, across the slab (bolt hanger) and block (bolt hanger),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Betonárka
By the right part of the pillar (4 bolt hangers), then up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Betonárka
Traverse the massif from right to left. Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Figaro
Route in shadow
5+
Šmoula
Route in shadow
5+
Figaro
Route in shadow
8-
Holina
Traverse a crack from right to left, after climbing past pyrite holds in the crack,… Route in shadow
7/7+
Holina
Start below the arrow, to a jug, from there to an edge and across an organ-pipe-like slab… Route in shadow
5
Dračí vejce
Through the NW wall over 2 BH directly to the main peak. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Dračí vejce
Through the center of the uphill wall directly to the main peak. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing

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