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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Krtina
Up the wall right of the N edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Krtina
Up the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
Left of the route "Strong Aroma" along the small cracks over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slunečná
From the valley, right of the route "Tatra Knows No Brother" up the crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Krtina
In the right part of the NW wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Slunečná
Right of the route "Bivouac Route" up the small corner and from the right above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Slunečná
From the left into the corner crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Slunečná
From the valley over 3 rings to the ledge, over the overhang to the 4th ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slunečná
Left of the route "Over the Small Tower" up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Slunečná
Through the squeeze chimney between both towers onto the wedged boulder and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
Up the small pillar to the right of the route "That's It" over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slunečná
Up the overhanging wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Slunečná
From the right into the corner and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Slunečná
Up the wall over the ring left of "Wide Chimney" to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slunečná
Left of the route "Sun in the Back" up the overhanging wall to the ring, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Slunečná
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
Over the overhang to the ring and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Slunečná
In the south face of the eastern tower along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Slunečná
From the ledge through the center of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Slunečná
Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
8
Slunečná
From the valley along the edge over 2 rings to the bivouac. Up the wall, higher along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slunečná
Through the center of the pillar over a large overhang onto the slab, through it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Slunečná
Rock Climbing
7
Slunečná
From the ledge up the S edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Slunečná
Along the edge to the right of "Wide Chimney" to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Opomenutá
Up the wall over two rings to the ledge and over the overhang to the 3rd ring. Over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Opomenutá
From the start of "Tatra Revue" straight up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Opomenutá
From SW up the chimney to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing
8
Opomenutá
Left of the route "Gloomy" up the wall over the clock to the 1st ring and up to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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