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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Jenovefa
Via the "Left NE route" briefly upwards. Below the overhang traverse left, up the crack… Rock Climbing
6
Jenovefa
Via the face right of the "Route of Sorrow" over a ring into the "West Corner" and up it… Rock Climbing
6
Jenovefa
From the cave in the NE face diagonally right almost to the left crack. Over the balcony… Rock Climbing
7
Jenovefa
Via the "Left NE route" to the balcony and via the crack directly below the summit block.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Jenovefa
Left of the "Route of Sorrow" diagonally left via the face to the ring. Up to the edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Jenovefa
Start in the right part of the valley (NE) face from the small pillar. Right, via the… Rock Climbing
6-
Jenovefa
In the fall line of the corner, diagonally left via the face into the hole and to the 1st… Rock Climbing
1
Jenovefa
From the SW into the wide chimney between Jenovefa and Velikonoční. In the chimney via… Rock Climbing
1
Jenovefa
Via the crack below the Easter Tower and the groove to the saddle. Rock Climbing
7
Velikonoční věž
Via the face over a ring to the pre-summit, overhanging part and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing
6
Velikonoční věž
Left of "N. c." along the edge over hourglasses and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velikonoční věž
From the E via the corner below the NE face. Along the crack via the small pillar to the… Rock Climbing
7
Velikonoční věž
Through the center of the SW face to the ring. Up to the notch below the summit block,… Rock Climbing
8
Velikonoční věž
From the saddle briefly via the corner and right below the overhang. Directly over the… Rock Climbing
7
Velikonoční věž
From the S via the corner to the block. Up the narrow face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Praděd
From the ledge somewhat upwards and traverse left to the W edge. Then to the hourglasses… Rock Climbing
6-
Praděd
From the SW via a notch to the ledge below the valley face. Through the center of the… Rock Climbing
7
Praděd
Via the crack in the valley face to the pre-summit and "N. c." to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Praděd
Through the center of the plateau face (two rings) and via the groove to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Praděd
With the edge to the overhang, from the right into the hole and to the ring. Left along… Rock Climbing
6
Praděd
From the S face and crack to the ring. Up through the holes (hourglasses) and the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Praděd
Through the center of the SW face over the overhang and 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Praděd
Left of "N. c." traverse through the chimney into the valley. Via the face over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Praděd
From the ledge of the "Valley Wall" along the left edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Praděd
From the left over the hole to the hourglasses on the W edge. Diagonally right (ring)… Rock Climbing
3
Kulička
From the passage E along the edge to the hourglasses, traverse right and through the… Rock Climbing
3
Praděd
From the plateau side via a chimney to the fore-summit, step across and along the edge to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kulička
From the right onto a ledge in the wall of the opposite massif and by a jump to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kulička
Through the center of the NW face over the overhang. Rock Climbing
5
Kulička
Through the left part of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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