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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Cikán
Up the wall to the right of the edge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Cikán
Via the route "Cikánská lomenica" to the 1st ring. Along the ledge to the left and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Cikán
Briefly up the corner. Right via a small crack and along the edge over the overhang.… Rock Climbing
7
Cikán
To the left of the chimney (from the boulder), traverse left and via the crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6
Cikán
Via the route "Cikánská lomenica" to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Cikánka
Through the crack onto the shelf and over the overhang through a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cikánka
Up the prominent corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Cikánka
Up the center of the W wall through the chimney and crawlspace to the balcony. Continue… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cikánka
Up the wall to the hourglass and through the right crack (loops) to the ring. Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
To the right of the route "Borrowed Shoes" through the center of the pillar over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
To the left of the route "Cimbalom" along the shallow crack over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Cikánka
Up the South edge (1st ring), under the overhang (2nd ring). Over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing
9
Cikánka
Through the small crack to the ring and up the pillar wall (2nd and 3rd ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Cikánka
Up the wall along the edge over the ring into the crack and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
Up the right part of the wall over two rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
Through the double crack in the corner, higher through the crack over the ring to the top… Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
Along the edge over two rings to the shelf and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Cikánka
Up the wall and along the edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Cikánka
From the steps, traverse right behind the edge to the ring and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
7
Cikánka
Through the broken crack over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Polednice
To the left of the crack, up the wall from the right to the ring. Up into the hole and… Rock Climbing
5
Mechová
Up the plateau wall with a high move to the overgrown fore-rock and up the smooth,… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
3
Polednice
From the northeast, up the corner crack to the small balcony and up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mechová
From E, over the overhang to the right into the valley wall onto the shelf. Up the… Rock Climbing
7
Polednice
Up the wall to the left of the east edge to the ring. Directly onto the shelf (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mechová
Up the short S edge to the balcony. Around the head, traverse to the ledge on the E side… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
Briefly up the SW edge, over the hourglass to the right into the E wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mechová
Up the wall in the fall line of the south edge to the ledge, directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
Through the notch in the plateau edge and with a high move to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Blázen
Up the center of the NW wall to the ledge, left and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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