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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Blázen
From the valley over the overhang, slightly right and up over the ring to the shelf. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Večerní věž
Via the "Fifan variant" to the Sphinx to the ring bolt. Left via the gully (thread… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Večerní věž
"Standard route" to the Sphinx into the saddle and along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
From the saddle up the center of the NW face via fissures, higher up the small wall to… Rock Climbing
4
Večerní věž
From the saddle obliquely right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
"Standard route" to the saddle and up the center of the wall, higher via the indentation… Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
Left of the edge up the wall over a ring bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
In the valley face obliquely left to the 1st ring bolt. Up the wall and via the gully to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Sfinga
Along the edge (four ring bolts) to the 2nd ring bolt of the "For Criminals" route and… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
Through the wide chimney between Sphinx and Mravenčí (Ant Tower) to the ring bolt, via… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
*** ATTENTION *** In some of Petr Prachtel's routes, the ring bolts may be of dubious… Rock Climbing
4
Sfinga
From the platform under the summit head to the right to the crack on the N side. Via the… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From S to a wide grassy ledge on the NE face. From its left edge to the 1st ring bolt.… Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
Left of the "Corner Variant" along the edge over a ring bolt into the saddle and freely… Rock Climbing
?
Sfinga
At the edge, left of the "For Criminals" route. Ring bolt. Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
Right of the route "Made by Pepas" via the chimney to the ring bolt. Up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
From the edge and wall to the ring bolt. (With aid) and cracks to the ledge, right to the… Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
Up the chimney left of "Vnitřní cesta" to the ring and up the wall slightly left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From N from the saddle between Sfinga and Jeřabí up the corner crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing
7
Sfinga
Up the wall along the crack to the ring. Up the friable wall slightly left to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4
Sfinga
From the highest point of the saddle briefly up and left to the crack. Up it to the ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From "Koutová varianta" right and directly to the 1st ring. Up and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sfinga
Start in the middle of the wall above the small cave. Up the small pillar to the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
From the right to the edge and along it (two rings) to the platform below the head. "N. c… Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
Up the wall directly over the ring under the head and up the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From the 1st ring of "Egyptská hrana" traverse left behind the edge to the small pillar… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
From the ledge above the 2nd ring of "Východní hrana" up the wall obliquely left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
Via the NE edge route to the 1st ring. Further directly along the edge to the cornice to… Rock Climbing
8
Mravenčí
From the left to the edge, up it over a ring into the hole, right into the chimney, up it… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
Left of the passage up the crack (or right up the wall) and over the ledges to the 1st… Rock Climbing

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