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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Opomenutá
Right of the edge up the wall into a hole, a long traverse right to the center of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Opomenutá
Right of the cave along the cracks to the pinnacle. Over the overhang, left to a small… Rock Climbing
7
Opomenutá
NE wall of the middle fore-rock up to the ring, slightly left to the edge and onto the… Rock Climbing
2
Opomenutá
Sloping wall to the fore-rock and retreating SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Opomenutá
Left of the valley edge by a crack to the 1st ring. Through the crack from the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opomenutá
Up the wall along the overhanging groove to the fore-rock. "N. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Opomenutá
SW wall diagonally left to the crack and up to the pinnacle. Right to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing
6-
Opomenutá
Via the face over a ring directly to the ring of the "Blue Effect" route and up it to the… Rock Climbing
8
Opomenutá
Traverse right to the ring, up the wall to the clock and right to the ledge (2nd ring). … Rock Climbing
6
Opomenutá
From the E via the face to the ring, via the groove to the ledge and along the edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Opomenutá
Overhanging wall over the ring and clock directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Opomenutá
Right of the route "Song Without Words" via the face over a ring to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
8
Opomenutá
From the end of the small pillar of the "Čihula's Route" via the face over three rings to… Rock Climbing
7
Opomenutá
Along the sloping ledge right into the small pillar, up it to a grassy platform, right to… Rock Climbing
6-
Opomenutá
From the south edge of the tower traverse left and via the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Opomenutá
From the N via the smooth corner to the ring. Over the overhang and along the broken… Rock Climbing
8
Jenovefa
Start in the right part of the valley (NE) face, traverse right and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Jenovefa
From the SW via the overhanging face (ring) and up to the pre-summit. Freely to the… Rock Climbing
6
Opomenutá
Diagonally left to the hourglasses and via the booming small pillar to the ring. Left,… Rock Climbing
6-
Jenovefa
From the W between both corners via the overhang to the W edge. Along the crack upwards… Rock Climbing
4
Jenovefa
Via the left W corner. Rock Climbing
6
Jenovefa
From the NW via the corner chimney to the lower pre-summit, into the tower face to a… Rock Climbing
8
Jenovefa
Right of the "Route of Sorrow" via the overhanging corner to the 1st and 2nd rings and… Rock Climbing
7
Jenovefa
Via the "Right Corner" 5m up and left through the center of the face to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Jenovefa
Left of the passage via the face, higher up along the edge over a ring to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing
7
Jenovefa
Via cracks into the cave, via a crack over the overhang to the balcony and left via… Rock Climbing
7
Jenovefa
Over the overhang (hourglasses) to the ring and up the receding face to the saddle. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Jenovefa
From the E via the corner and grooves to the saddle between Julia and Jenovefa. Up a… Rock Climbing
8
Jenovefa
Via the "Left NE route" briefly upwards and left over the overhang to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing
4
Jenovefa
From the right over the overhang into the corner, via the crack to the ledge and right… Rock Climbing

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