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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Únorová
From the chimney up the wall left over 2 rings slightly right to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing
?
Únorová
To the left of "N. c.", ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Únorová
From NE into the inner chimney and up it to the fore-rock. From its NE edge descend into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Únorová
To the right of the route "Kangaroo" from the chimney along the edge to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Únorová
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
8
Únorová
Through the crack to the end and directly up the wall to the ledge to the ring. Up and… Rock Climbing
8
Únorová
From the fore-rock on the left, higher up on the right side of the edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Únorová
Up the wall left to the ring. Directly into the crack and through it to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing
2
Varle
Along the southwest edge over pockets and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Laid wall
7/7+
Varle
From the gorge up to the ring. Up the wall into the gully and over the 2nd ring to the… Rock Climbing
?
Varle
Right of the route "Mouth F**ker", ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Varle
Rock Climbing
5
Varle
Along the edge (hourglasses). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Varle
Up the middle of the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Varle
Up the middle of the small wall via hourglasses. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čertík
In the corner under the overhang and slightly right to the ring. Using the ring directly… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertík
Direct route" to the ring. Using the ring to the ledge and left to the edge, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Čertík
Right of the route "Little Devil Bertík", ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertík
In the NE wall, a narrow crack to the ring and along the broken crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Čertík
Crack to the point and left to the ring. Directly to the ring "N. C." and diagonally… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čertík
Along the edge to the ledge and slightly left to the 1st ring. Up to the 2nd ring, by… Rock Climbing
5+
Tobogán
Via a gully in the valley wall left to the ring and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tobogán
Via a gully in the valley wall left to the ring and from the left to the summit.
5
Pralinka
Along the overhanging crack in the valley wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Tobogán
Via a small corner in the NW wall over the ring to the summit.
2
Pralinka
Up the plateau wall via artificial holds to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Tobogán
From the SW via a small wall to the smooth ridge and along it to the summit.
2+
Půlpinta
Via the V-edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Půlpinta
To the left of Libánek's route up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Půlpinta
Up the wall below the rappel station to the summit. Rock Climbing

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