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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Půlpinta
Via the inclined north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Půlpinta
In the side north wall via a small pillar and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čínská zeď
From the path below the rusty-colored valley wall, up the center of the wall to the 1st K… Rock Climbing
5+
Čínská zeď
To the left of 'Recyclables', along the rusty edge over 2 K to the ledge (clock) and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Čínská zeď
To the right of the 'Last Minute' route, up the overhanging crack in the narrow wall of… Rock Climbing
5+
Čínská zeď
Along Peki's edge over K to the highest ledge, up the wall under the overhang and right… Rock Climbing
5
Čínská zeď
Up the wall to the ring of the 'Butcher's Dream' route and diagonally left to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Čínská zeď
Along the edge over the ring to the highest ledge, traverse left into the corner and up…
4+
Čínská zeď
To the right behind the Chinese Wall, up the chimney between the wall and the pillar,… Rock Climbing
5
Čínská zeď
Into the hole and to the ring. Directly into the crack (loops) and freely to the summit.
2+
Čínská zeď
Through the corner to the birch tree and over the wedged stone directly to the summit.
4+
Čínská zeď
Up the wall to the left of the boulder (loop) to the ring. Upwards and traverse left into…
5
Čínská zeď
Through the hole to the ring, left into the small gully and up it. Around the birch tree…
5+
Čínská zeď
Through the notch into the 1st and 2nd hole, up the wall to the ledge (clock), traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Čínská zeď
Between the Frederik Olšinský and Topinka routes, up the wall over 2 K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Čínská zeď
From the 2nd hole, traverse right along the ledge to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Čínská zeď
Up the center of the wall into a large hole and to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Čínská zeď
Directly up the chimney-crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Čínská zeď
Along the left valley edge and wall over K into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čínská zeď
Up the center of the wall over the 1st and 2nd ring and 'clocks' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Čínská zeď
Along the edge over the spire and three 'clocks' to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Čínská zeď
In the right part of the massif directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Čínská zeď
Along the edge to the ring. From there, from the left and directly up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Čínská věžička
Up the center of the overhanging wall to the ledge and left to the edge.
6
Čínská věžička
From the center of the wall diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Čínská věžička
Along the edge (ring) to the summit.
6-
Čínská věžička
Up the center of the wall (drilled piton, ring) to the summit.
5
Čínská věžička
Along the SW edge to the ledge and traverse left to the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Čínská věžička
Along the SW edge to the ledge and up the center of the wall over the ring to the summit.
4+
Čínská věžička
Along the edge to the ledge and right up the wall to the summit.

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