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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Kovář
In the lower part of the gully between Herold and Kovář, up the crack behind the flake to… Rock Climbing
4+
Kovář
Follow the 'On a short leash' route to the 1st K and further to the small balcony (loop).… Rock Climbing
5
Kovář
To the right of the 'On a short leash' route, traverse left along the ledge to below the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kovář
In the S plateau wall, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kovář
To the right of the 'Chimney' route, up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Trautenberk
Up the chimney from the valley to the edge of the pillar, then along the rounded edge…
6
Trautenberk
Through a prominent corner in the side wall over K under the overhang, right onto the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Dráb
From the left to the shelf to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring, difficult and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Dráb
Up the wall, higher via the crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Dráb
From the ring, always along the crack left into the hole and via the crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Dráb
From the gully traverse right to the crack and to the ring. Up the crack, under the…
6
Dráb
Via the 'Padej nahoru' (Fall Up) route into a large hole. Through another hole to K.,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Dráb
Right of the 'Cesta ze strže' (Gully Route) up the wall into a large hole and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Dráb
Left of the NW edge up the wall via K into a large hole and to the 1st K of the 'Padej… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Dráb
2 m right of the W edge directly to the hourglass.
5+
Dráb
From the start of the SW wall, traverse continuously left to the 2nd ring.
7/7+
Dráb
Along the edge to the balcony and via the crack in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Dráb
Wall in line with the 2nd ring of the Děčínská route over the ring.
7-/7
Dráb
From the left to the W edge, up to the hourglass and traverse right to the 1st ring. To…
5
Dráb
From the S edge from the wide ledge traverse into the SW wall left to the crack, along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Dráb
In the left part of the wall over the ring to the chimney and by that to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Dráb
Left of the edge by wall to the ring and directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Dráb
Wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Dráb
From the ring directly (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Dráb
Middle of the wall to the ring, traverse 2 m left, wall to the holes and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Dráb
Wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Dráb
By jumping to the pine tree. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Dráb
Left plateau edge over the ring to the summit.
5+
Dráb
Stance to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Dráb
Double stance to the crack and then to the ring. Right to the crack, through it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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