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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4+
Morous
Along the edge below the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Morous
Along the plateau edge to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Morous
In the middle of the plateau wall, step into the crack and follow it to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Kotě
From the ring right to the flakes and along them to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kotě
Up the wall along the right valley edge via the ring to the summit.
?
Kotě
Southwest face over the hourglasses to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Kotě
Through the chimney to the balcony towards the ring. Upwards, left to the edge and along…
7/7+
Průchodová
Through the middle of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Along the 'sokolík' left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4+
Průchodová
Along the ledge in the West wall to the corner crack and up it over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
6
Průchodová
From the gorge diagonally left to the edge (ring) and along it to the summit.
7+/8-
Průchodová
From the chimney on the plateau side, an overflow into the wall and left along the North… Rock Climbing
3
Průchodová
From the East from the passage, up the chimney to the summit, or further via a slightly… Rock Climbing
6
Průchodová
To the right of the route 'Approach Somersaults', up the wall to the 1st bolt. From the… Rock Climbing
5
Průchodová
Up the chimney of the 'Passage Route' to the constriction, step left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Průchodová
From the boulders inside the passage, via a short crack and with difficulty into a narrow… Rock Climbing
2+
Průchodová
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Průchodová
Via the V-edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Tučňák
From Stařena (Old Woman). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Tučňák
From the gorge right of the E edge directly to the 1st ring. Up the overhanging edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tučňák
Up the valley wall diagonally left to the edge and up the left valley edge over 4 rings…
6
Tučňák
Left up the wall from the "For gentlemen in tails" route, up the overhanging wall to the…
7-/7
Tučňák
Up the plateau wall diagonally left to the edge. Along the edge over a ring to the second…
6
Tučňák
Along the edge left into a hole, back to the edge and along it to the ring. Up into the…
6-
Tučňák
Up the wall to the balcony, traverse left to the crack and along it to the ring. Up the…
6
Tučňák
Up the East edge to the end of the crack and left (ring) onto the slanting slab. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Stařena
Up the dihedral to the slanting ledge, along it to the right and up the center of the…
6
Stařena
Up the V-edge to the summit.
7-/7
Stařena
From the 1st ring of the Gingerbread House route, directly up the wall (hourglasses) into… Rock Climbing
3
Tučňák
Due to rock damage in 1976 (block collapse), the route ceased to exist. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Stařena
Up the center of the wall over two rings to the 1st ring of the NE wall.

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