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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Stařena
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring.
7+/8-
Stařena
Up the center of the plateau wall over a ring to the summit.
6
Stařena
Along the N edge to the shelf, right into the valley wall and diagonally right to the 1st…
Přeskok
Stařena
From Tučñák (Penguin). Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4+
Mušle
Normal route (N.c.) to the slanting slab and right to the dihedral (sling). Up the…
5
Stařena
From the block, step across into the wall, traverse right into the crack and up it to the…
6
Mušle
Up the overhanging wall at the edge (ring) onto the shelf and up the steps to the summit.
6
Mušle
Up the wall to the ring and directly onto the shelf. Up the steps to the summit.
6
Mušle
To the left of the Sea Edge, up the center of the valley wall over K directly to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Mušle
Up the SW wall to the left to the hourglasses and directly onto the shelf. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Mušle
Along the edge or traverse from the right, (ring - additionally placed) onto the shelf…
3
Mušle
Below the overhanging step, left onto the shelf in the SW wall. Center of the wall, or S…
5
Mušle
From the plateau side, traverse left up the wall to K and further left by hand-traversing… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bivak
From the edge to the center of the wall and over the overhang to the 1st ring. Slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Bivak
Over the overhang from Jo­gín to K and up the slanting wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Bivak
On the prominent NW pillar (opposite the Penguin Tower) via an overhanging dihedral over… Rock Climbing
6-
Bivak
From the left, over massive hourglasses at the edge, over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Bivak
Through the cracks (hourglass) and along the ledge right into the corner. Up the corner…
4+
Bivak
On the NW pillar to the left of the Psí angína route, up the wall over the K to a short… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bivak
On the protruding north pillar from the left onto the edge and up to the 1st and 2nd K.… Rock Climbing
4-
Bivak
To the right of the 'Synergistic Edge' up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bivak
Up the crack (ring) and chimney (hourglass) to the top.
6
Bivak
Up the overhanging wall to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd rings. Right into the crack of 'Expired…
7/7+
Bivak
To the right of 'Expired Deadlines' up the subtle dihedral to a ledge to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
6-
Bivak
Through the depression (hourglass) and corner (loop) to the small balcony to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Bivak
Along the edge to a ledge and up the wall along the edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Bivak
Along the 'Nasolenej Lojza' route to the 1st K. Above it up the wall to the right,… Rock Climbing
5+
Bivak
Up the wall along the cracks to the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Bivak
Up the chimney in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Bivak
To the left of the 'Thorny Route' up the wall along the edge to the 1st K. Right over the… Rock Climbing

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