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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Bivak
To the right of the 'Thorny Route' up the wall into a ledge and right to the 1st K. Left… Rock Climbing
6
Bivak
Up the overhanging small wall to a ledge and to the 1st ring. Diagonally left to another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Bivak
Along the 'Thorny Route' to the 1st K. Up, right beyond the edge to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bivak
Up the small dihedral and wall to the 1st ring, up the overhanging (breakable) wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Bivak
Over the large overhang diagonally left and up to the 1st ring. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Bivak
Up the wall, difficult diagonally right to the edge and along the edge (two rings). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Bivak
Directly over the 1st ring to the 2nd ring, to the crack and left along the sloping edge…
6+/7-
Bivak
Up the center of the wall (two rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Katedrála
To the right of the 'Eleventh Commandment' route, up the chimney (hourglass) to the top… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Katedrála
In the right part of the massif, briefly up the crack and right along the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6
Katedrála
To the right of the 'Life is Adršpach' route, up the narrow pillar to the 1st ring. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Katedrála
All the way to the right on the west edge of the massif, from the right onto the pillar… Rock Climbing
5
Katedrála
From the upper level in the central part of the massif, step onto the edge and traverse… Rock Climbing
4-
Katedrála
To the right of the 'Boží' (Divine) route up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Katedrála
Up the center of the west wall via two hourglasses to the 1st and 2nd K. Directly to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Katedrála
To the right of the chimney in the valley wall up the crack and edge via the 1st K to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Katedrála
In the side NE wall from the block directly up the sloping wall to the crack (K) and… Rock Climbing
6
Katedrála
Up the chimney in the valley wall to the large hourglass. Traverse left via the 1st K to… Rock Climbing
2+
Katedrála
Up the chimney in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Katedrála
To the left on the valley side up the overhanging wall to the 1st K. Up the wall … Rock Climbing
6-
Sup
From NW up the chimney and wall via BH to the 1st K. Along the crack to the 2nd K and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Sup
From the upper side, up the wall along the left (W) edge via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sup
The route leads to the fore-rock between Supa and Doubravská Tower. Stemming between the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sup
Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Sup
Along the right edge of the chimney, or through the chimney to the sloping platform and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Dušičková věž
From the block over the overhang to the edge and along it (ring) to the summit.
6
Ostříž
To the right of the 'Listopadová' (November) route up the wall to the 1st K. Through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dušičková věž
Up the wall along the right valley edge via a ring to the summit.
6-
Ostříž
Directly to the 1st and 2nd ring. Traverse left into the corner and left around loose… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Dušičková věž
By stemming in the chimney.

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