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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Macek a Macíček
By opposition in the center of Macík's plateau wall and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Švejkova věž
Rock Climbing
5
Žabákův syn
Via the crack from the S side to the pre-peak, along the edge and slightly left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Žabákův syn
Straight up the middle of the E face to the edge and via the normal route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žabákův syn
Up the S wall to the left edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Obrovák
To the hourglass, slightly left over the overhang to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Obrovák
Through the middle of the wall along the overhanging gully under the overhang, 2 m to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Obrovák
Along the shallow crack to the balcony on the edge and along the edge to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
3
Helenka
From the saddle to the balcony, right to the ledge in the valley wall and up the middle… Rock Climbing
3
Kotlová věž
Right of the chimney through the crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Gringo
Overhanging plateau edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Gringo
From the middle of the rusty wall diagonally right to the edge and up the wall alongside… Rock Climbing
2+
Gringo
Along the edge, step over to the ledge, left to the pine tree, through the gully and… Rock Climbing
4-
Školačka
From the saddle from the left through the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Školačka
From Krtolnice traverse to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
3
Krtolnice
Along the wall traverse under the overhang, along the crack to the platform and to the… Rock Climbing
6
Čokoládová věž
From the block, traverse right through holes (ring) to the edge to the 2nd ring. Along… Rock Climbing
3
Čokoládová věž
Along the crack next to the edge to the fore-summit, traverse into the SE wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Sir Winston
From the uphill side through the chimney to the summit. (n.v. likely means na vrchol - to… Rock Climbing
2+
Sir Winston
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the summit. (n.v. likely means na vrchol - to… Rock Climbing
4-
Malá železná věž (Skautská věž)
Through the chimney to the ledge, traverse right to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž u Hříběte
At the right crack briefly up and diagonally right to the ring. Left and directly to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kobylí věž
Directly to the 1st ring, up to the ledge and traverse right past the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Innominata
Along the left valley edge to the 1st ring. Traverse to the middle of the valley wall and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Příhrazská stěna
Up a wide crack behind a flake for 10m, diagonally left through a gully to the ring and a… Rock Climbing
6-
Příhrazská stěna
Along the closed crack to the ring. Through the crack to the balcony, diagonally left, up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Turnovská věž
Up the overhanging wall (1st ring) to the ledge and up over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Turnovská věž
From the ring along the edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Turnovská věž
Through the left corner of the pillar onto the pillar. Rock Climbing
5+
Turnovská věž
Up the center of the plateau wall to the ring, diagonally left behind the edge and left… Rock Climbing

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