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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4-
Garotta
Rock Climbing
5+
Velká křížová věž
Up the crack (hour-glass), overhanging at the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká křížová věž
Up the wall through the hole (hour-glass) to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Surikata
From the plateau side via a crack and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Spárka
From the saddle between the edge and the tower via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Iroquoi
Up the valley-facing NE wall along the cracks over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hodinář
From the saddle, up the wall and a ledge, traverse left and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Herbert
From the W edge diagonally right up the SW face to the ring, right up to a hole, directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Bronzová
From the NW via a crack into a hole and further via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž pod Hynštou
Up the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zvon
Up the E wall along the SE edge into a hole and to the ring. Traverse right into another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zvon
From the fore-rock along the NW edge to the edge, left down the crack briefly, then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věž MK 1934
Via the NW face and crack to the balcony, then traverse right into the valley face and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Fredy
Up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Přemysl Pitter
Up the plateau wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dolmen
From SE by a crack to the balcony, traverse right to the E edge, then traverse left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv nad parkovištěm
By a crack to a ledge and by a corner crack (ring) to another ledge. Traverse right in it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ostružinová věž
By a crack in the plateau wall into a hole and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kujón
As the “Old Route” to the 1st ring, then hand-over-hand right and along the edge over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Škvor
From the uphill side, lift onto the ramp and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Škvor
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce
From the S edge diagonally right to the ring. To the right by a shallow groove to the… Rock Climbing
6
Převislá
In the left part of the SE wall, through notches diagonally left to the S edge and along… Rock Climbing
4
Sněžná
Rock Climbing
4
Sněžná
In the right half of the NW wall to a shallow crack at the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Skokanský balvan
Rock Climbing
2
Vrátník
Rock Climbing
2
Medvídci
From the left to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Slepená
N. C. " under the overhang, left to the balcony in the SW face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Leguán
Through the center of the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing

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