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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Polední kameny
Up the wall from the left or directly into the crack and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Polední kameny
Along the gash to the edge and along it to the 1st ring. Up the wall slightly right to… Rock Climbing
6
Polední kameny
Along the edge onto an oblique ledge and along it right to the 1st ring. Along the crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Polední kameny
Up the chimney to the ledge and traverse right in it to the 1st ring. From the ring 2m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Polední kameny
Overhanging gash into the hollow, along the crack right to the ring and onto the ledge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Polední kameny
Short chimney to the lower tower, left into the crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Polední kameny
Internal route inside the chimney below the corner crack. Chimney, higher up along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Polední kameny
Wide chimney to the ledge and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Věžička na hřebeni
Rock Climbing
3
Věžička na hřebeni
Along the small plateau wall next to the gully. Rock Climbing
3
Krok
Step over from the boulder to the small balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Krok
Step over to the SE edge, along the ledges to the left, back to the right to the sub… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Barberina
From the fore-rock right to the edge, along it to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd rings. Over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Údolní komínové věže
Through the passage to the terrace in the valley wall. By wall to the ring and by wide… Rock Climbing
6-
Údolní komínové věže
By the left corner crack in the wide valley chimney to the bottom of the inner chimney… Rock Climbing
5+
Údolní komínové věže
By the right corner crack in the wide valley chimney to the bottom of the inner chimney… Rock Climbing
4
Údolní komínové věže
Through the chimney between the plateau and valley towers until they separate. From there… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Údolní komínové věže
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing
5+
Údolní komínové věže
Through the chimney and traverse left along the ledge to the ring. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Náhorní komínová věž
Hand crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
5+
Náhorní komínová věž
Along the S edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Náhorní komínová věž
Through the chimney to the widening. Left of the edge over ledges to another ledge, then… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Otty Bauše (Skřítek)
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Union database. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Otty Bauše (Skřítek)
From the edge to the balcony. Along the edge 4m up (loop), slightly right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dudy
Along the 'sokolík' (small crack/finger jam) to the 1st ring, up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Slávy Korčáka
From the S edge traverse along the shelf right to the diagonal crack. Along it, higher up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věž Slávy Korčáka
Left uphill edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Garotta
From the balcony descend right into the crack, from there traverse right to the E edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Pierot
Sloping NW edge. CHIMNEY III. Through the chimney to the ridge and N. c. to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Garotta
In the ledge, traverse left to the 1st ring and up to the 2nd ring. From the left, up a… Rock Climbing

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