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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Slightly from the right over the crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Left along the edge over the ring to the Nervous Breakdown ring.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the center of the wall directly to the ring. Along the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Drábský masív
Through the hollow in the corner about 8 m up, right over the edge, up the wall and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drábský masív
Directly up the wall to the zigzag crack and up it.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the left part of the wall over two rings.
9/9+
Drábský masív
Up the wall (1st and 2nd ring) to the 3rd ring and left through the hole to the edge and…
7-/7
Drábský masív
In the lower part of the gorge between Drábský Pillar and Dráb, up the SE wall directly… Rock Climbing
2+
Trubková jehla
From the fore-rock up the wall and right along the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Trubková jehla
Overhanging right valley edge, higher left to the 1st ring, friable wall into the hole …
6
Balustráda
From the ledge, by standing up to the ring. Wall into the recess, crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Balustráda
By standing into the wall and to the ring. Further standing onto the ledge and by crack…
6-
Balustráda
Along the gully over the overhang to the pulpit and traverse right to the 1st ring. (With…
9/9+
Balustráda
From the ledge two meters left of the start of the NW crack over the overhang and ring…
4+
Svatá Anežka
In the right part of the SW wall, up the diagonal crack over the hourglass to the plateau… Rock Climbing
5+
El miska
To the right of the valley edge up the wall to K. Up and over K of the Drábské Boogie… Rock Climbing
4-
Zpěvačka
Through the valley chimney.
2+
Pískovna
To the left of the 'For Jana' route, by wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pískovna
Up the NW valley wall to the small crack, through it to the end and right over K to the… Rock Climbing
6
Studený průchod
Directly (1st ring bolt) over the overhang to a ledge. Right (hourglass) and directly to…
5+
Olšinská věžička
Along the NW edge via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věžička u rozcestí
Directly to a ring bolt and up the wall to the right to the rappel ring bolt.
5
Věžička u rozcestí
Along the edge via a ring bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Věžička u rozcestí
Along the W edge (ring bolt).
6+/7-
Věžička u rozcestí
From the valley via a groove and up the wall to the 1st ring bolt. From there slightly…
5+
Modrá planeta
Through the crack (1st ring) to the tree, traverse right and directly (2nd and 3rd rings)…
5
Trojitá věž
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Trojitá věž
Via the crack-chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Trojitá věž
Along the SE edge to the pine tree and up the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Trojitá věž
At the edge to the pine tree and by layback to the 1st R. Straight up the edge to the 2nd…

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