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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Machkova věž
From the valley side over ledges, up the wall and a small crack directly to the ring of… Rock Climbing
5+
Machkova věž
From the NE edge, traverse in the chimney to a crack and through it over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Janebova věž
From the 2nd ring, straight up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
From the 3rd ring of 'Butterfly Movement' from the left, along the edge to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
Up a small crack and wall to the 1st ring and further to the 2nd ring. Slightly right or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Plynárna
To the left of Bhutan, straight up the wall to the ring and left via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
Through a crack to a ledge below the wall, then up the wall over two rings to the cornice…
5+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
Along the edge into the NW wall (sling on the right) and slightly left over the shelf to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Rovné skály
To the right of the 'Blueberry Picking' route onto the balcony (hourglass) and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Vlasty Štáflové
From the S edge, traverse to the double hourglass in the SW face. From the left into the…
6+/7-
Věž Vlasty Štáflové
From the start of the Děčín variant, up the face to the 1st ring. Left to the 2nd ring,…
5+
Věž Vlasty Štáflové
Via the crack to the ledge.
4+
Věž Vlasty Štáflové
Through the chimney, higher up traverse into the E face and then along it to the S edge.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
7
Žlutá věž
Along the NE edge under the overhang, left to the ring and through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Věž u Bukanýra
Up the wall over ledges and holes to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u Bukanýra
Around the crack in the shallow corner. Rock Climbing
4
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
Overhang from the E and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Spárová věž
Via an overhang into the corner crack. Rock Climbing
7
Spárová věž
Via a crack left of the cave. Rock Climbing
7
Spárová věž
Via a crack above the cave ceiling. Rock Climbing
6
Přeskakové věže
In the middle of the N wall (left of the Staircase) to the balcony (ring) and by a swing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Na stráži
From the uphill side to the ledge and along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Máňa
In the middle of the E face directly (or in the right part along the crack) to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Loupežnická věž
Up the upper wall around a small tree to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Jeřábová věž
Start like NC. Further up the wall almost to the eastern edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hlava
Along the NE edge to a ledge and still along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hlava
Along the ledge from west to east to the SE edge. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hlava
Directly up the middle of the SE wall (higher up slightly to the right) to a ledge.… Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věžička
By standing on the edge. Rock Climbing
7
Hlava
Start about 1m to the right of the SE edge on the wall to the right onto a ledge and… Rock Climbing

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