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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Hladká věžička
By standing on the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věžička
By standing into the smooth wall. Rock Climbing
4
Fuňas
Through a wider and considerably dirty crack in the right part of the E wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through the middle of the valley wall by a crack to a ledge, through a crack to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through a crack from the path. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through a crack along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Drban
Up the plateau wall via the ring and the hourglass feature (somewhat to the left) to the…
5
Drábský koník
Rock Climbing
6
Drban
Left of the western edge (right part of the NW wall) up the wall to a step. Along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
6-
Drábský koník
Along the eastern edge (first slightly from the left, higher up directly) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Drábovna
Up the wall to the left of the W edge. Rock Climbing
6
Drábovna
Left of the Primátorka route, through a chimney with wedged boulders, higher up through… Rock Climbing
6-
Drábovna
Through the corner crack below the S edge, hawk-like below the overhang. Through the… Rock Climbing
5
Drábovna
Through a recess in the NE corner (in the fall line of the bridge at the summit) to the… Rock Climbing
7
Drábovna
Between the Primaterka route and the NE chimney, a hawk-like feature, then left into a… Rock Climbing
7
Drábovna
Through the corner to the right of the Primátorka route via a small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Drábovna
Through a crack from the SW to the right of the W edge. Rock Climbing
4
Císařovna
Through a small gully from the east to the slab. Up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Císařovna
From the north (From the Head) up the wall and through a finger crack into the gully. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Půlená věž
Via the crack from NW. Rock Climbing
3
Kapraďák
Along the East edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy věžičky
From the SW, by opposition and along the edge to the lower pinnacle. Rock Climbing
6-
Šourkova věž
Through the crack in the corner further below the corner. Rock Climbing
6-
Šourkova věž
From the right to the crack, through the fissure to the ring and through the crack (2nd… Rock Climbing
9
Šourkova věž
From the right to the crack, through it over three rings under the overhang and left to… Rock Climbing
8
Šourkova věž
Through the small corner to the ledge, over the overhang to the ring and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Skalní dóm
Up the wall below the abseil. Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
Through the middle of the smooth south face into the gully in the corner and to the… Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
Through the broken crack to the ring and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Frýdštejnská věž
Through the corner from the south to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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