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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Pašerák
Rock Climbing
8
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Up the wall directly to the 1st and 2nd rings. Briefly left and diagonally right over… Rock Climbing
8
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Right of the route "Míša, that was a bear" up a short crack into the cave (belay). Over… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Right of the route "Řeporyje" up the wall over 2 rings. Over ledges and along the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Along the edge over hour-glasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Right of the route "Chipman is Pičman" up the wall to the ring. Along the edge via the… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Right of the double crack up the small wall via a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Up the overhanging wall over 2 rings and over ledges to the 3rd ring. Up the crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Up the overhanging wall diagonally left over a ring into the corner. Up the corner and… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Through the crack to the ledge and traverse right along it. Up the smooth small wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka u Lvíčka
Right of the route "Náhory" (High Plateau) briefly up the crack and right to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
2
Pašerák
Up the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Svéhlavička-předskalí
Along the right edge. Rock Climbing
7
Svéhlavička-předskalí
Up the small wall and crack to the end and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Taktovka
Via the "Old Route" to the 1st ring. Through the corner under the overhang, right past… Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
To the right of the route "Viva Las Vegas" (right part of the wall) up the wall over a… Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
Via the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
Up the center of the wall over a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
To the right of the route "Retroflexion" along the edge over a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Piták
To the right of the corner up the center of the wall over a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Piták
To the right of the route "Gelactiv" up the center of the wall over a bolt (bh.) to the… Rock Climbing
6
Piták
To the right of the route "Time Planner" along the edge over a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Piták
From the slope (from the crack) right into the center of the pillar and up the wall over… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Piták
To the right of the route "Rotation" up the wall over 2 bolts (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
To the left of the route "Lateroflexion" via the overhang, higher up the wall over a bolt… Rock Climbing
8
Taktovka
From the south via the fore-summit crack briefly up and traverse right to the edge (1st… Rock Climbing
6-
Piták
From the center of the wall via the overhang right into the small cracks and over a bolt … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Taktovka
Along the edge over 2 rings to the ledge and optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Buffa
Up the chimney, higher left into the crack and through it over the ring. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Taktovka
Along the edge slightly left and up the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd ring of "Chlum's Route… Rock Climbing

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