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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Buffa
From the boulder up the wall via a bolt (bh.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Taktovka
From the 2nd ring of "Old R." left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
6
Buffa
Diagonally left to the ring and up the wall (two rings) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Taktovka
Optionally to the fore-summit and up to the 1st ring. Traverse left (hourglass) across a… Rock Climbing
?
Taktovka
To the right of the route "Hit", 2 rings. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Buffa
To the right of the route "Dear Customer" up the wall along the edge via a bolt (bh.) to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Taktovka
Through the right part of the SW wall (5 rings) to the 4th ring of the "Old Route".… Rock Climbing
8
Útesy
To the right of the "Continuum of Transience" route along the edge over 5 rings to the… Rock Climbing
7
Útesy
Up the crack and left up the wall to the ring. Straight over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Velvet
Over the boulder onto the left valley edge and up it over two rings to the ledge. Right… Rock Climbing
4
Aladar
From the NW shelf along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Útesy
Up the wall over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
To the right of the "Memory Optimism" route up the wide crack, higher up the middle of… Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Up the overhang left over 2 rings and up to the 2nd ring of the "Hasta la vista Radane"… Rock Climbing
8
Aladar
From the right corner along the holes to the center of the valley wall and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
8
Aladar
Along the edge over three rings to the base of the tower. Rock Climbing
6-
Aladar
The route leads to the valley base of the tower. From the west, via the rib over a ring… Rock Climbing
3
Malinká
Up the middle of the small wall (hourglasses or pitons/anchors) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velvet
Along the right valley edge up the grooves to the end (hourglasses or pitons/anchors) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Útesy
Up the corner over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Útesy
Up the crack. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Velvet
From the middle of the valley wall through the holes diagonally right to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Malinká
Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská
Up the crack over the overhang and ring to the end, left onto the balcony and right up… Rock Climbing
6
Podmokelská
Up the "Dro-li-to" route to the 2nd ring. Right and up the middle of the pillar over the… Rock Climbing
6
Podmokelská
To the left of the "Narrow Chimney" route up the wall diagonally left under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
6-
Podmokelská
Up the crack over the overhang into the chimney, through it under the roof and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Útesy
To the right of the corner up the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská
To the left of the "Joskův odkaz" route up the grooves, higher up along the crack over 3… Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Up the prominent corner to the end, ring. Left to the ledge and up the "Delusion of… Rock Climbing

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