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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Pyramida
Along the edge (two rings) to the shelf and right to the pine tree. By small chimney to… Rock Climbing
7
Bivaková
Up the wall over the ring to the shelf and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Bivaková
Via the corner (ring) and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bivaková
From the chimney to the right through the hole into the middle of the wall and along it… Rock Climbing
6-
Pyramida
Along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pyramida
Through the crack and over ledges to the 1st ring. Up the brittle wall and from the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Minaret
Up the high swing to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Minaret
From the right to the blunt edge and through holes to the 1st ring. From the left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Filmař
Up the valley wall over the hourglass and ring to the ledge to the 2nd ring. Up and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Botanická zahrada
Along the edge to the 1st ring, from the left into the hole and back to the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Botanická zahrada
In the left part of the valley wall, first directly, higher up to the right and up into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Botanická zahrada
From the plateau side, along the overgrown ledge to the right and up the edge to the… Rock Climbing
8
Egyptská stěna
Up the prominent small pillar to the 1st ring. Briefly along another small pillar, then… Rock Climbing
6
Egypťan
Along the edge to the ring and up the crack to the fore-summit. Up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Egypťan
Up the eastern (plateau) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Egypťan
Up the crack with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Egyptská stěna
Up the left crack to the ring, from the right above it and further up the left crack … Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Egypťan
Up the middle of the valley wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vruboun posvátný
From the ledge, the left part of the wall over the ring to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Parašutista
Up the wall over 2 rings directly to the ledge to the tree. Through the crack and corner… Rock Climbing
8
Parašutista
From the 1st ring of "Shadow Soldiers" up into the hole and left into the notch. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Parašutista
Along the left valley edge, along the small pillar to the ring. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Tabulová hora
From the right over the edge to the notch and thus to the 1st ring, along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vruboun posvátný
Along the left valley edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Parašutista
From the NW from the boulder, traverse into the wall and up to the ring. Diagonally left … Rock Climbing
7
Vruboun posvátný
From the slope, opposite the Egyptian, diagonally right and directly up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
6
Vruboun posvátný
From the slope to the right and up the middle of the wall over a ring and hourglass to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vruboun posvátný
From the ledge, up the middle of the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tabulová hora
Up the wall, higher along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Tabulová hora
Up the wall directly or from the left to the ring. Directly, higher diagonally right over… Rock Climbing

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