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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Útesy
Up the overhanging groove and left to the 1st ring. Up the wall over 2 rings directly to… Rock Climbing
7
Útesy
Up the wall over the ring left into the crack and up it over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Freely to the small tower, left to the edge and up the wall (two rings). Rock Climbing
6
Podmokelská
Up the right crack, higher up the narrow chimney into the saddle and up the "Chimney… Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská
Up the groove to the end, left in the ledge behind the edge and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
To the right of the "Blue Devil" route, from the corner diagonally left and up the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Podmokelská
To the left of the "Valley Wall" up the strongly overhanging wall over 3 rings. Straight… Rock Climbing
6
Podmokelská
From the left to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská
Briefly up the "For Revenge" route and traverse right to the 1st ring. Straight to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Podmokelská
Up the groove of the "Teamwork" route and up the wall over five rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Podmokelská
From the start of the "Valley Wall" directly over 2 rings into the small corner and along… Rock Climbing
7
Podmokelská
Up the fissure to the hourglass (or piton/anchor point) and up the crack to the bench. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Podmokelská
Up the chimneys to the balcony, left up the small wall behind the edge and up the corner… Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská
From the base of the rock right into the middle of the pillar and up to the ring. Along… Rock Climbing
5
Bivaková
From the right to the south edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bivaková
Through the gully into the space between both towers and by chimney or crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bivaková
Via a small corner or from the plateau side traversing to the terrace and by crack in the… Rock Climbing
5
Zábradlí
In the valley wall, left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bivaková
By crack in the corner to the terrace and right into the space between the towers. By… Rock Climbing
6-
Bivaková
Through the middle of the small pillar over the ring to the terrace. By chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7
Pyramida
Along the sloping ledge to the right to the ring. Traverse left under the crack and along… Rock Climbing
1
Bivaková
By crack to the balcony and a short wall section. Rock Climbing
6-
Pyramida
Along the Sinuhet edge to the shelf and further along the edge over the last ring of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pyramida
From the ring of the route "Good Day" slightly right to the 1st ring of "5th Dynasty".… Rock Climbing
8
Bivaková
In the right part of the valley wall over three rings to the shelf and freely to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bivaková
Along the edge to the ring and along the edge left to the 2nd ring. Up the wall directly,… Rock Climbing
6
Pyramida
Up the wall directly to the ring (unprotected), up to the crack and from the right to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bivaková
Via the hand crack in the SW face over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pyramida
Through the right part of the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bivaková
Left of the edge up the wall to the ring. Up to the balcony under the overhang. From the… Rock Climbing

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