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Climbing at Holštejn

250 routes
5 areas
3–12- grades

Holštejn in the Moravian Karst offers 250 routes in five sectors – Lidomorna, Vaňousovy díry, V buči, Nad holštejnskou jeskyní and Stará rasovna. Its overhanging and vertical limestone walls are among the hardest climbing in the Czech Republic; grades from 3 to 12-.

Part of Moravian Karst, Holštejn has 250 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 12-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Parking

49.40261, 16.77783

7
Vaňousovy díry
To the right of the Old Route. After clipping the third bolt, traverse left onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Vaňousovy díry
One of the most difficult technical routes in Moravian Karst. A legend and a pearl of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Vaňousovy díry
At the end of the corner-chimney, traverse right over the overhang to the rappel anchor… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Vaňousovy díry
12 meters of easy climbing and a six-move boulder below the rappel anchor, where the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Vaňousovy díry
Via a prominent fault in the middle of the wall. On the balcony, traverse left. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
9+
Vaňousovy díry
Short boulder on small holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Vaňousovy díry
From the third bolt, continue straight up along the edge into the Old Route and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Vaňousovy díry
Start via the Through the Nest route, through the roof crack, then along the crack to its… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Vaňousovy díry
Start boulder. At the top, through the hole to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
Technical route "without holds". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
From the third bolt of Epita directly up. The large ledge on the right is neither taken… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Vaňousovy díry
From the second anchor of Epita to the second anchor of the route No Entry to Epita
9
Vaňousovy díry
Classic nine on Holštejn. Two harder sections and endurance at the top.
10-
Vaňousovy díry
From the third anchor of Epita to the rappel anchor of the No Entry to Epita route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Vaňousovy díry
Description missing. Defined steps below. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Vaňousovy díry
To the right of Boža's Crack. A delicate technical route on the slab. At the third bolt,…
8-
Vaňousovy díry
Boulder between the first and second bolt. Unprotected finish up the corner from the…
10-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical-power route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Vaňousovy díry
Via a prominent crack in the left part of the massif. Boulder to the first bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
6-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Vaňousovy díry
Technical route on holes and small ledges Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Vaňousovy díry
Directly up the wall without an edge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Vaňousovy díry
Start via the Tears of Delight route to the 2nd bolt, from there slightly left over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Vaňousovy díry
Start via the route Starci na chmelu to the ledge, from there directly over two bolts up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
V buči
Start up the wall to the right of premature joy over two bolts to the rappel anchor. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
V buči
Start to the right of the route Pozor kozle in the wall behind the right edge, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Vaňousovy díry
Left edge of the massif. It is possible to clip a quickdraw from the adjacent route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
V buči
Start to the right of the route Pravá behind the edge, along the left edge of the side… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
V buči
To the left of the right wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7+
V buči
Directly up the wall without edges. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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