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Climbing at Holštejn

250 routes
5 areas
3–12- grades

Holštejn in the Moravian Karst offers 250 routes in five sectors – Lidomorna, Vaňousovy díry, V buči, Nad holštejnskou jeskyní and Stará rasovna. Its overhanging and vertical limestone walls are among the hardest climbing in the Czech Republic; grades from 3 to 12-.

Part of Moravian Karst, Holštejn has 250 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 12-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Parking

49.40261, 16.77783

5
V buči
Over an overgrown overhang to a green ledge and then up a slightly broken edge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7+
V buči
Start to the right of the route Urob si sám on a wall over three bolts to a ledge, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
V buči
To the right of Bílé sny. Consistent climbing on crimps.
8
V buči
Consistently difficult route with one slightly harder spot. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
V buči
Bouldery over an overhang and with a technical vertical top-out to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
V buči
At the fourth quickdraw of Bílé sny from the left, over very small holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
V buči
Over an overhang and with a technical smooth corner to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
V buči
Bouldery over an overhang and with a technical vertical top-out to the anchor.
5
V buči
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
V buči
Via a diagonal ramp, same as the route Kuře, diagonally right upwards and directly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
V buči
Technical climb over bulges on the left edge. Interesting top-out to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
V buči
Between the routes Rychlejší vyhrává and Nostalgie, start with an overhang to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. Straight up the middle of the mossy right slab. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. From the right of the mossy slab and then left to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
V buči
The left mossy and very overgrown edge of the sector. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. First route from the left behind the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. Through the middle of the mossy slab and then left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. Up the mossy slab to the left towards the lower-off. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. Through the middle of the mossy slab and then right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Through the corner all the way to its top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
5
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right through the corner and then straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Starts the same as Trest (Punishment), but from the first bolt straight up over rounded… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Sector on the right in the slope. Along the left edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
In the right part of the wall. Route completely on the left. Finger strength. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
In the right part of the wall. Start from a stone. Above the first bolt, it joins the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Short route to the right of the memorial plaques (right one). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
In the right part of the wall. Start on jugs to the right, then traverse left and up on… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Short route to the right of the memorial plaques (left one). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending all the way to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending to the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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