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Climbing at Holštejn

250 routes
5 areas
3–12- grades

Holštejn in the Moravian Karst offers 250 routes in five sectors – Lidomorna, Vaňousovy díry, V buči, Nad holštejnskou jeskyní and Stará rasovna. Its overhanging and vertical limestone walls are among the hardest climbing in the Czech Republic; grades from 3 to 12-.

Part of Moravian Karst, Holštejn has 250 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 12-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Parking

49.40261, 16.77783

8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
To the left of Aerodrom (Aerodrome), through the middle of the slightly overhanging wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Via the route Aerodrom (Aerodrome) to the fourth bolt. From there, from the right, up via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Through the middle of the vertical wall. Endurance on crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Via the route Nejdelší den (Longest Day) to the penultimate bolt and right via Aerodrom … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start left of Nejdelší den (Longest Day), up the wall via 3 bolts to the edge, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
To the right of Nová varianta (New Variant). Boulder on a vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the belay in the middle of the wall, a line of bolts extending upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start left of the memorial plaques, continuously up the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Up the small pillar to a large handle (friend) and from the left overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Ramp right and up the broken wall to the belay on the small pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the third bolt of Kaše directly up to the silver bolt and over it across the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of Cesta Pardů. Directly over the bolt. From the next protection, it joins Cesta… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of the corner and via the overhang from the right to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Right of the corner and under the overhang left and over it to the belay (right). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
From the ledge, the second route right of the corner. Up the wall into a hole and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
10
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start like Orient Express and directly up the smooth wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Start right onto the ledge over two bolts to a small balcony and over it up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Always left of the corner of Masked Judith, at the fourth bolt with the help of a step… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Through the corner with a final small overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
7-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Left of the edge, through a technical corner under the overhang and over it to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Directly up the wall over the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Under the overhang of Harlinov's Descendants to the right and up the difficult wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Nad holštejnskou jeskyní
Along the edge and over the overhang to the top.
10-
Lidomorna
Up a slightly overhanging wall on poor holds to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
Start completely on the right and finish via Okrajovou. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Lidomorna
Straightening of the route That's a rush. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Lidomorna
Up Kotašal halfway and then right up a vertical wall boulder-style to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
To the ledge and further right to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+/11-
Lidomorna
Straightening of the Frozen Men still along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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