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Climbing at Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana

152 routes
51 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The right side of Kovářova rokle near Hvězda is, with more than 150 routes on 56 towers, one of the largest sectors of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Generál Laudon, Vyhlídková stěna, Mordýř, Velký pátek, Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana has 152 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 51 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Martinská stěna
In the middle of the NE wall, a distinct wide crack, later a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Martinská stěna
To the right of the Kloubeňák route, backward, through a chimney between the wall and the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Martinská stěna
From the tourist path, from the stairs, by crack over the overhang to the ledge. To the… Rock Climbing
5
Mordýř
In the NE wall (from the tourist path) through a conical chimney, higher up a corner… Rock Climbing
6-
Martinská stěna
To the left of the Ticho (Silence) route, along the path, by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mordýř
From SW, from the tourist path, through a passable chimney into the cave. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mordýř
From SE from the tourist path, by crack over the overhang to the balcony. Corner crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce duší
In the left part of the NE wall, a curved crack to the fore-summit. To the right along… Rock Climbing
6-
Polednice
In the right part of the NE wall, a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Polednice
From N by a corner crack under the overhang to the bolt. By the right crack over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
From the valley side by a corner crack to the plateau and by route no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Smolařka
From NE by crack into the saddle. By the 'Ministěna' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
From SW by a broken crack and chimney to the summit ridge. By overhang and wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková
From NW by crack to the pillar, descend by crack to the plateau. By chimney to the summit… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
By crack in the middle of the NE wall to the plateau. By route no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
From SW by crossing under the S edge. Traverse right to the plateau in the NE wall and by… Rock Climbing
4+
Scéna
In the left part of the SW wall, in the corner, by the right crack to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Scéna
In the left part of the NE wall, by a corner crack under the overhang. By crack over the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Scéna
Left of the 'Dva schody' route by building (aid climbing), a crack and an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kulisák
Left in the SW wall (left of the 'Narozky střelců' route) by a crack and a fissure to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kulisák
In the SW wall, by the left wide crack to the pillar. Descend through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kulisák
From NE, through the corner to the right to the crack and by that (circle) to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kulisák
By crack, higher up by chimney to the summit ridge. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kulisák
From the plateau foothills (from NW) by crossing and left up the wall to the ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Klaun
From SW by chimney to the summit ridge to the circle. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vůz
In the SE face, via the chimney and crack into the recess. Via the crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing
6
Tygra
From the northeast, via the corner crack to the flake, via the crack and wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing
3
Špalek
From the northwest, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vůz
In the left part of the SW face, via the chimney and crack to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kanón
Like 'Ammunition from the fridge' into the small cave. Above the overhang to the right… Rock Climbing

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