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Climbing at Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana

152 routes
51 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The right side of Kovářova rokle near Hvězda is, with more than 150 routes on 56 towers, one of the largest sectors of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Generál Laudon, Vyhlídková stěna, Mordýř, Velký pátek, Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana has 152 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 51 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kanón
From the Powder Barrel, crawl through to the small cave in the NE face. Through the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídková stěna
From the southeast, from the block, up the wall along the edge to the ledge and right to… Rock Climbing
4-
Ypsilon
Via the route Pravý ypsilon to the bifurcation. Left via the crack to the top, mandatory… Rock Climbing
5+
Ypsilon
In the right part of the NE face, to the left of the Horká krev route, via a corner, then… Rock Climbing
6-
Ypsilon
In the right part of the NE face, via a crack, a corner crack over an overhang into a… Rock Climbing
3
Velký pátek
In the right part of the NE face, in the corner, left onto the fore-rock. By stepping… Rock Climbing
6
Velký pátek
In the right part of the SW face, in the gully, through a curved crack to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velký pátek
In the NE gully, by the right crack onto the fore-rock. To the left of the crack, Mlha na… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velký pátek
From the exit, through the corner crack under the overhang. Through the crack over the… Rock Climbing
3
Velký pátek
In the middle of the SW face, to the left of the Zjaraboj route, through a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Večernice
In the NE face, via a corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Večernice
In the NE face, via the left crack to the ledge and then left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Tělocvična
In the middle of the NE face (behind the block), via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velký pátek
In the NE gully, by the left crack onto the fore-rock. Via Mlha na kameni to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šatna
From the corridor, via an oblique crack into the chimney, higher up through a window into… Rock Climbing
3
Tělocvična
In the left part of the NE face, via a chimney, crack and broken chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Tělocvična
In the middle of the NE face (behind the beech tree), via a chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tělocvična
To the right in the NE face (opposite 'Bachaři' - Guards) via a crack to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing
4-
Šatna
To the right into the route 'Šaty jsou ve skříni' (Clothes are in the closet) via a… Rock Climbing
4-
Svatý Bimbas
About 5 meters to the right of the 'Kudlabajs' route, traverse through a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
6
Suflér
In the SW face, via a crack, higher over the overhang to the ramp. Follow the path … Rock Climbing
4+
Svatý Bimbas
Via the crack of the 'Padělák' (Forgery) route to the level of the 1st bolt. Continue… Rock Climbing
5+
Suflér
Below the overhang, traverse the wall to the left to the crack and then over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Říjnová
In the middle of the SW face, via an overhanging curved crack to the pillar. To the right… Rock Climbing
4-
Suflér
In the middle of the SW face, by stemming, crack, chimney under the overhang. Over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokl
From the SE (passable cave), via a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Polní maršál Daun
From the SW, via a crack to the pre-summit. To the right, up the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pokladnice
From the east, up the right corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pokladnice
To the left of the path 'Krásná neznámá' (Beautiful Unknown), via a corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Převor
From the pre-summit, along the S edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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