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Climbing at Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana

152 routes
51 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The right side of Kovářova rokle near Hvězda is, with more than 150 routes on 56 towers, one of the largest sectors of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Generál Laudon, Vyhlídková stěna, Mordýř, Velký pátek, Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana has 152 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 51 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Měsíčník
In the middle of the NE face, by the right crack to the balcony. Entirely voluntarily to… Rock Climbing
4-
Měch
From the SW, by a chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivní masiv
To the left of the route 'To je pěkný', by the left corner crack, in the finish like the… Rock Climbing
6
Měch
From the tourist path (from the NE), by a fissure and to the left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masivní masiv
From the tourist path in the left part of the SE face, by a crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
5
Masivní masiv
Approach from the tourist path from the SE between the Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masivní masiv
From the tourist path, along the southern edge over a ledge (or from the right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masivní masiv
From the fissure, over the ledge directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivní masiv
To the left of the route 'To se ti bude líbit', by a crack and a fissure to the ledge. On… Rock Climbing
5+
Kovaříci
To the left of the eastern edge, by a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulisačka
From the SW, from the tourist stairs, by the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kulisačka
To the left of the route 'Vyklidnění', by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kovaříci
In the left part of the SE face, by a chimney and a crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kovaříci
In the right part of the NE face, by a corner twin crack to the wedged boulders and to… Rock Climbing
4-
Kovaříci
From the NW, by the conical chimney and a crack to the fallen block and into the chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Kovaříci
From the SW, up the wall and through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenolom
From the SE, by stemming and to the left by a crack over the overhang and directly to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hřbet
In the middle of the SW face, by a broken crack to the ridge. Via the route 'Vteřinové… Rock Climbing
4-
Hřbet
In the middle of the NE face, by a broken crack to the ridge. Along the ridge into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenolom
From the SE, by stemming and to the right by a crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kamenolom
From the SE, by a broken corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kovářova smrt
From NW, through a chimney below the summit head. With significant aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážný
From SW, through a chimney to the fore-summit to the ring. Aid climbing and left along… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lapka
From the plateau fore-summit (from NW) by jump to the boulder and along the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Lapka
From the plateau side (from W) by step to the edge and along it to the boulder. Along the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Martinská stěna
To the right of the Hadovka route, a corner (3 rings and a bolt) and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mordýř
To the right of the route "Evening Song" by crack to the fore-summit. The route "Hladká" … Rock Climbing
6
Martinská stěna
In the right part of the NE wall, a wavy crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mordýř
Along the N edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mordýř
From SE (from the tourist path) via the right overhanging crack (ring) to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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