The right side of Kovářova rokle near Hvězda is, with more than 150 routes on 56 towers, one of the largest sectors of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Generál Laudon, Vyhlídková stěna, Mordýř, Velký pátek, Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.
Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana has 152 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 51 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.
Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
- Camping only at campsites.
National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Generál Laudon Vyhlídková stěna Mordýř Velký pátek Masivní masiv Martinská stěna Kovaříci Kulisák Scéna Svatý Bimbas Vyhlídková Majka Vůz Suflér Ypsilon Tělocvična Lafeta Markytánka Kanón Skalní divadlo Mrtvej stromolezec Kamenolom Měch Strážce duší Kulisačka Hřbet Večernice Polednice Lapka Šatna Oje Smolařka Pokladnice Kočičák Strážný Měsíčník Soudek prachu Večerka Myšák Sokl Pandurek Polní maršál Daun Špalek Říjnová Kovář Kovářova smrt Převor Montek Šumař bárta Tygra Klaun
7-
Aprílové krůčky
From SW, from the tourist viewpoint, up the sloping wall (ring) and through the gully to… Rock Climbing
5
Další etapa
From the northwest, from the fore-rock (circle), up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Letem světem
Via Zádhel to the pillar, right to the 1st ring and up the wall to the 2nd ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Oklika
Via route no. 1 to the ledge and traverse left on it to the balcony. Left via the crack… Rock Climbing
7
Boží hod
From the valley, from the south, up the chimney to the balcony. Along the wall next to… Rock Climbing
7-
Raport
Up the S wall (2 rings) to the ring of route no. 4 and up that route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Placatice
From NW via the wide crack to the ring. Up the wall to the pillar and via route no. 1 to… Rock Climbing
5
Rozporem o Markytánku
By opposition between the tower and Markytánka to the pillar of route no. 1 and up that… Rock Climbing
5
Přepadem z Markytánky
From the Markytánka balcony, via the overhang to the pillar of route no. 1 and up that… Rock Climbing
5
Ztráty a nálezy
In the left part of the NE face, via a crack (ring) to the platform and via route no. 4… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Přeskokem z Markytánky
From the Markytánka summit, by jumping to the pillar of route no. 1 and up that route to… Rock Climbing
5+
Placatice - var
From the start of route no. 1, traverse along the ledge to the right to the ring. Via… Rock Climbing
4
Danušova
From the SW fore-rock, via the overhang and the left crack to the pillar. Via route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5
Drsná
In the right part of the NE face, via a crack to the pillar and through a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
6
Kanonýrská
In the right part of the SW face, via a crack (ring) to the flake. Descend via the crack… Rock Climbing
4
Hupky dupky
In the left part of the SW face (from the gully between the tower and General Laudon),… Rock Climbing
5
JV hrana
From SE via the crack to its end and traverse right to the edge to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing
3
Rozporovým komínem
From SW via the chimney to the balcony and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pravý ypsilon
In the left part of the NE face, up the wall to a crack in the smooth wall and through… Rock Climbing
3
Až příště
Through the chimney from SW or NE to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Vítr v pytli
By stemming against 'Staré železo' (Old Iron) (1st bolt), then over the overhang and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Padělák
Up the center of the SE face via a crack and then left along the edge (3 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kudlabajs
Up the center of the NE face via a crack (bolt), fissure and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sestupová
In the SW face, left via a chimney to the ramp, then right along it and via a chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rychlovka
To the right of the path 'Cyklistické koleno' (Cyclist's Knee), via a short chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cyklistické koleno
From the tourist path, by a short chimney and a crack to the fore-summit. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Nespavost
From the tourist path, traverse the oblique crack to the ledge and to the right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay