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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

7-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Start via the route 'Invalid' onto the ledge, then along it to the right and up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Boulder problem above the second (anchor) in the overhang, on small crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Start via the route 'Var. Condor's Span' over two protections and a rappel anchor onto… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Original classification V+A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Always along the arête. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Along the arête and from the third protection up the wall to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Upper slab directly up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Original classification V A2
9+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Start like Kučera's route, continuing diagonally left to the first bolt, then over it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Technical corner. Exit left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Start to the right of Kučera's route via a bolt onto the balcony, from the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Hard boulder problem at the first bolt. Easier with a prominent side pull to the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
From the belay of the route 'Saxon Tricks' to the right. Beautiful slab climbing with… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Original classification A3, RP T. Pilka, 1986 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Right of the route, 50. day, via 3 bolts n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Starting boulder, no-hand, powerful pull over the overhang and technical adjustment to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Original classification V A2
8+
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Constant climbing graduating under the chain.
9-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Technical tuner with rounded rails. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Railed climb with a technical finish. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
RP T. Pilka, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Via Dubious Reputation to the second anchor and then left to the third anchor of Appendix… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Slightly overhanging wall. From the second bolt right to the third. Requires finger… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Via Dubious Reputation to the second anchor and straight up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Boulder over two bolts to the ledge and to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Over the overhanging belly to the ledge and to the Chain rappelling anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Boulder moves. The route ends at the rappelling anchor to the left of Pochybná Pověst … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Right through the hollow, left under the overhang and into the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Otec, matka, syn
Uphill edge on Son. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7
Stěny u Sloupské jeskyně
Over the laid-back overgrown slab via BH to the small tree. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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