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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

8
Staré skály
To the right of the route, a surprise over two quickdraws to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Staré skály
A surprise to the second and right to the edge. Continues through easier terrain further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
12
Staré skály
Between BuBuBu and Buzíky. A bouldery 10 (UIAA X) over two bolts, a decent rest and a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Staré skály
Start left of 'Short Spasm' Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Start with a boulder from 'Short Spasm', then right and hard to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Staré skály
Starting boulder, then on small holds in a slight overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Staré skály
Roof climbing culminating in an exit boulder. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10
Staré skály
Variant start of 'Hormone Redneck' over the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future', do not climb to the spike, but immediately right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future'. From the second bolt, go right on small crimps up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Staré skály
Start from a stone into the overhang, from the end of a prominent spike straight up to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Across a smooth vertical slab to the right to the anchor. Finger strength required.
8
Staré skály
From the third bolt, go right into a small corner and up it.
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the right. Endurance on crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Staré skály
From the third bolt of the original route, go left and boulder to the chain.
10-/10
Staré skály
RP T. Pilka (Redpoint T. Pilka) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the left. Endurance on crimps.
?
Staré skály
Deviation from 'If a pig had wings' to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Staré skály
Powerful climbing on good holds through a prominent fault in the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Staré skály
Boulder start from below over a bolt to a shelf and then like Via Kučera up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Staré skály
Boulder for smaller bad holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Staré skály
Start from the small cave. A long reach above the arch and right of the edge up.
5
Staré skály
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Unprotected slabby wall with a break in the middle. You can climb to the left rappels and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Staré skály
Step into the wall and from the first bolt traverse right and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and then up the right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and up it. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
9-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Center of the wall, boulder problem above the second bolt onto the slab and up to the…
8-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Unpleasantly past the first two pieces of protection, then easier to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Up the corner and bouldering over the rounded bulge.

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